Free Crochet Fringe Top Pattern – Mesh Top For Summer

Free Crochet fringe mesh top Pattern For Beginner 4

Color blocking two mesh panels into a single top is a straightforward way to make an open-stitch garment look more considered the yellow upper body and purple hem section read as a deliberate design choice rather than just a color change, especially with the matching fringe and sleeve cuffs pulling the purple through the whole silhouette. The mesh grid itself is one of the most beginner-friendly open stitches there is, which makes the two-color construction more achievable than it looks. For a mesh top with a similar long-sleeve shape but a single-color approach, this raglan mesh top is a useful comparison.

Crochet Fringe Top

Pinterest graphic reading Free Crochet Fringe Mesh Top Pattern For Beginners, source Myzayi Yunus, showing a yellow and purple two-color mesh crochet top with fringe hem and sleeves on a mannequin

Fringe attached at both the hem and sleeve cuffs gives this more movement than a standard pullover it reads festival-ready but the square neckline and sleeve coverage make it versatile enough to layer over a swimsuit or wear on its own. The mesh stitch repeat is a simple chain-space grid that works up quickly even at a larger size, so the length and sleeve addition don’t add as much time as you’d expect. For another fringe-finished summer top, this lacy fringe festival top takes the fringe detail in a more structured lace direction.

Materials

  • Yarn in two colors or one color using doubled strands
  • 4.0 mm crochet hook
  • Scissors
  • Stitch markers
  • Measuring tape

Master These Stitches First

Triangle Panels (Make 2)

  • Create a slip knot and chain 6
  • Double crochet into the first chain
  • Chain 2 and double crochet into the same space
  • Chain 5 and turn for the next row
  • Double crochet into the same space
  • Chain 2 and double crochet on top of the next double crochet
  • Chain 2 and double crochet into the third chain of the turning chain
  • Chain 2 and double crochet into the same space
  • Repeat the increase pattern by placing double crochet, chain 2, double crochet in the first and last stitches of each row

Hands beginning a purple crochet mesh stitch row from a foundation chain with a silver hook

Continue increasing until the desired height is reached

  • Small size uses 7 rows
  • Medium and Large sizes use 8 to 9 rows
  • Extra Large size uses 10 to 11 rows

Place both triangle panels together and join them at the center bottom using a slip stitch

Triangle Panel Explanation

  • Each triangle increases only at the edges, not across the entire row.
  • The “double crochet, chain 2, double crochet” worked into the first and last stitches is what creates the triangular shape.
  • Everything in between stays flat and consistent.
  • The chain-2 spaces act as flexible corners.
  • They also make the joining later much cleaner, so resist the urge to tighten them too much.
  • When checking size, measure height, not width. The width automatically adjusts as the rows increase.

Body Section

  • Chain 5 and turn
  • Stop increasing stitches
  • Work one double crochet on top of each double crochet from the previous row

Hands working the yellow mesh crochet body panel, showing the square grid stitch in progress on a white fur surface

Separate each stitch with chain 2

  • Small size uses 2 rows
  • Medium size uses 4 rows
  • Large size uses 5 rows

Change color if desired and continue the mesh pattern for extra length

  • Small size adds 3 rows
  • Medium size adds 5 rows
  • Extra Large size adds 6 rows

Body Section Clarity

  • Once the body section begins, all shaping stops.
  • This is important. If the fabric starts flaring, it usually means an increase was added by accident.
  • The chain-2 between stitches creates a breathable mesh that drapes instead of clinging.
  • Keeping your stitch count consistent row to row is more important here than row tension.
  • Use stitch markers on the first and last stitches if needed to stay aligned.
  • Color changes work best at the turning chain so the mesh stays visually even.

Assembly and Neckline

  • Place the front and back panels together
  • Join the sides using a zig zag method by chaining 2 and working single crochet through alternating mesh spaces
  • Leave the top triangle rows open to form armholes
  • Divide the upper section into two parts using stitch markers
  • Work back and forth on one side at a time to form the shoulder area
  • Continue for approximately 7 rows for a medium size
  • Leave about 10 inches open for the neckline
  • In the neckline area work 3 double crochets into each mesh space to create a fuller edge

Hands joining the purple lower section to the yellow mesh upper body of a crochet fringe top in progress, hook and yarn visible

Assembly and Neckline Guidance

  • The zig zag join is flexible and prevents the sides from feeling stiff.
  • When joining, focus on lining up mesh spaces, not rows.
  • This keeps the body from twisting.
  • Leaving the triangle rows open is intentional and creates clean armholes without cutting or shaping later.
  • Stitch markers are especially helpful here.
  • They let you clearly see where shoulder shaping starts and stops, which makes the neckline more balanced.
  • Working three double crochets into each mesh space adds weight and structure to the neckline so it sits flat instead of collapsing inward.

Sleeves

  • Attach yarn at the armhole opening
  • Work the mesh pattern in rounds using double crochet and chain 2
  • Medium size uses 14 rows of the first color and 10 rows of the second color
  • To taper the sleeve work halfway around then turn and use double crochet decreases

Sleeve Fit Notes

  • Working sleeves in the round first gives them a relaxed fit at the upper arm.
  • The tapering happens later so the sleeve doesn’t feel tight at the shoulder.
  • When decreasing, keep the decreases subtle.
  • The goal is shaping, not sharp narrowing.
  • Turning halfway instead of working full rounds lets the sleeve follow the natural arm curve.

Fringe Finishing

  • Cut yarn strands approximately 11 inches long
  • Use three strands per fringe
  • Fold strands in half and pull through mesh spaces along the hem or sleeves
  • Secure each fringe evenly for a balanced look

Fringe Tips

  • Cut all fringe strands before attaching them.
  • This keeps the finished length consistent.
  • Attaching fringe into mesh spaces rather than stitches makes spacing easier to control.
  • After attaching, hang the garment for a few hours, then trim the fringe lightly.
  • Gravity often evens things out naturally.

Mannequin wearing a two-color crochet mesh top in yellow and purple with long fringe at the hem, on a hat-topped display

Fit and Sizing Guidance

  • This top relies on vertical measurement more than stitch counts.
  • Always try the triangle panels against your body before joining.
  • If the height feels right, the rest of the garment will fall into place.
  • If you are between sizes, choosing the larger triangle height usually gives a more comfortable fit, especially through the bust.

Beginner Notes

  • Count rows, not stitches, during triangle shaping
  • Use stitch markers early if increases feel confusing
  • Mesh fabric looks uneven until several rows are complete

Troubleshooting

  1. Fabric flares in the body section: An increase was added accidentally. Check that only one double crochet is worked per stitch.
  2. Triangles don’t match in size: Count rows and measure height. Frog back the taller panel to match the shorter one.
  3. Neckline feels too tight: Make sure the triple double crochets are worked fully into each mesh space and not compressed.

Finishing Notes

Weave in ends along the mesh direction so they stay hidden. Block lightly if needed, focusing on opening the mesh rather than stretching the fabric.

 

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