A halter top with an open filet grid has a certain directness to it the structure does all the work, and there’s no fussy finishing to navigate. This one works up in bright green cotton with a high neckline, open-square filet body, and a denser mesh hem band that gives it just enough weight to sit flat. If you’ve already made the crochet mesh top for beginners and want something with a more defined garment shape, this halter is a clean next step.
Crochet Filet Top
The construction is straightforward: a foundation chain sets the width, then rows of filet squares build up the body with consistent dc-and-space repeats before the neckline shaping pulls everything into the halter silhouette. Two skeins of yarn cover the full top, and the only tools beyond a hook are stitch markers and a tape measure for sizing. For another open-construction top that wears well over summer basics, the sheer mesh turtleneck top handles a different neckline with the same filet-adjacent logic.
Materials
- Yarn: Two balls of fingering or light weight yarn
- Hook: 5 mm crochet hook
- Tools: Stitch markers, scissors, measuring tape, button
Crochet Stitches Explained
Bust Panel Solid Section
- Measure around the bust, leaving space at the back for crisscross lacing
- Make a slip knot and chain to match your measurement
- Skip the first chain and work half double crochet into every chain across
- Chain 1, turn, and work one half double crochet in each stitch across
- Repeat the row until the bust panel reaches your desired coverage
Mesh Body Section
- Chain 5 and turn to begin the mesh pattern
- Skip two stitches and work one double crochet into the next stitch
- Chain 2, skip two stitches, and double crochet into the next stitch across
- Chain 5, turn, and double crochet into the top of the previous row’s double crochet
- Chain 2 and continue across, placing the final double crochet into the turning chain
- Repeat for the desired mesh length and fasten off
- Never read a crochet pattern before? No problem! The video tutorial below is perfect for beginners, or give the written pattern below a try!
Neckline Decreasing Mesh
- Try the piece on and mark where the neckline should begin using stitch markers
- Join yarn at the marker and chain 3 to start the decrease row
- Skip two stitches and continue the mesh pattern across
- At the start of each row, chain 3 and double crochet directly into the next double crochet
- At the end of each row, work a double crochet decrease over the last stitch
- Repeat until the neckline reaches the desired width and fasten off
Neck Straps and Finishing
- Chain 15 and slip stitch into one corner of the neckline
- Single crochet evenly across the top edge of the neckline
- Chain 15 on the opposite side for the second strap
- Work two rows of half double crochet across the entire neckline and straps
- Sew a button onto one end of the neck strap for closure
Crisscross Back
- Crochet a long chain to use as the back lace
- Weave the chain through the mesh openings in a crisscross pattern from top to bottom
Bust Panel Guidance and Fit Control
- The solid bust panel is the structural base of the top. Because you are chaining directly to your body measurement, accuracy matters here.
- When measuring around the bust, stand naturally. Do not pull the tape tightly. Also remember you are intentionally leaving space at the back for lacing. That opening provides adjustability and prevents the front from being overstretched.
Half double crochet is used for the bust panel because it creates a fabric that is:
- More stable than double crochet
- Less stiff than single crochet
- Slightly stretchy but supportive
As you repeat the rows, check coverage frequently. The height of this section determines how secure the top feels. If you prefer more coverage, add more rows before transitioning to mesh. If you want a lower cut, stop earlier. Try it against your body rather than relying on a number.
Mesh Body Section Clarity
The mesh begins with chain 5. Those chains create the height and spacing needed to transition into the open pattern.
The structure of the mesh is simple:
- Double crochet
- Chain 2
- Skip 2 stitches
This creates evenly spaced openings.
- Consistency is important. If your tension changes, the mesh can start to lean or widen unevenly.
- When turning with chain 5, those chains act as the edge height plus spacing. Placing the final double crochet into the turning chain keeps the edge straight. Skipping that step often causes the side to taper unintentionally.
- If your edges begin to flare outward, your chain 2 spaces may be too loose. If the fabric pulls inward, your chains may be too tight. Adjust tension early rather than continuing for many rows.
Neckline Decreasing Mesh Explained
- This section shapes the halter silhouette.
- Marking the neckline before decreasing ensures symmetry. Try the piece on and stand in front of a mirror. Mark where you want the neckline to begin sloping inward. Placement affects both coverage and comfort.
- At the start of each row: Chaining 3 replaces the first double crochet. Working directly into the next double crochet keeps the shaping gradual rather than abrupt.
- At the end of each row: The double crochet decrease removes one stitch space. This is what pulls the neckline inward.
- Because decreases happen only at the edges, the mesh pattern remains intact in the center. The fabric narrows evenly on both sides, forming a clean halter shape.
Neck Straps and Edge Stability
- The chain 15 creates the base of each strap. Before committing, you can test the length by holding the chain behind your neck. If you prefer more adjustability, add extra chains.
- Single crocheting evenly across the top edge stabilizes the neckline. This step prevents stretching and gives structure before adding the final half double crochet rows.
The two rows of half double crochet across the neckline and straps serve two purposes:
- Strengthen the straps
- Smooth and polish the edge
Without these rows, the straps could feel thin or curl.
Sew the button securely using multiple passes of thread. The button acts as an anchor point, so reinforcement matters.
Crisscross Back Adjustment and Support
The long chain for the back lace determines how adjustable the garment will be. Make it longer than you think you need. Extra length can always be trimmed.
Weaving through the mesh openings allows:
- Adjustable tightness
- Even tension distribution
- A decorative back detail
When lacing, start at the top and work downward evenly. Pull gently to avoid distorting the mesh.
Fit and Sizing Guidance
- Because this pattern is measurement based, sizing is flexible.
- For fuller busts: Add additional rows to the solid bust section before transitioning to mesh.
- For a longer torso: Add more mesh rows before shaping the neckline.
For more modest coverage:
Begin neckline decreases later.
Always try the piece on at three points:
- After the bust panel
- After several mesh rows
- Before finishing neckline decreases
These checkpoints prevent major adjustments later.
Beginner Notes
- Even if you are experienced, mesh patterns can shift if stitch counts are inconsistent.
- Count your double crochet posts across each row during the first few mesh rows. Once the rhythm is established, the pattern becomes repetitive and easy.
Use stitch markers to mark:
- Beginning and end of rows
- Neckline start points
Markers reduce visual guessing.
Troubleshooting
- If the bust panel feels too tight: You may need a few extra chains at the foundation. The lacing cannot compensate for a front panel that is too narrow.
- If the mesh flares: Check turning chains and final stitch placement.
- If the neckline looks uneven: Ensure decreases are worked only at the row ends and consistently on both sides.
- If straps stretch over time: You can surface slip stitch along them for reinforcement.
Finishing Notes
- Block lightly if needed, especially if using natural fibers. Mesh opens beautifully after gentle blocking.
- Trim all ends securely. Pay extra attention to joins at the neckline and strap corners.
