Free Crochet Filet Top Flower Pattern For Summer – Lace Dress With Open & Filled Squares

Construction starts with a foundation chain, builds the filet grid row by row following the flower chart, then shapes the armholes before finishing the neckline and seaming the sides. The yarn here is Hobbii Rainbow lace cotton — lightweight enough to keep the grid open and the finished top comfortable in warm weather. For something in the same open-front layering family but with a more relaxed fit, the filet crochet top with a tie back is worth adding to the queue.

Materials

• Lace weight yarn
• 2 mm crochet hook

Filet Crochet Basics

1. Open square: 1 double crochet, 1 chain, skip 1 stitch
2. Filled square: 3 double crochets
3. Each grid square equals 2 stitches
4. Total starting chains should equal twice the number of grid columns

What that means in plain crochet terms

Filet crochet is basically a repeatable grid. The pattern “picture” is your grid, and your stitches build that grid.

• One grid column = 2 stitches worth of space in your foundation.
• That’s why your starting chains = 2 × number of columns in your chart.
• Open squares create a “hole” (dc, ch, skip) and filled squares create a “block” (3 dc).

Common confusion: “Why does an open square skip a stitch?”
Because the chain counts as the open space, and you need to move past a stitch to keep the grid aligned. The skipped stitch is what prevents the mesh from collapsing inward.

Before You Start: Quick Grid and Fit Setup

• Double crochet

1) Choose your grid width (columns)

Pick how many columns you want around your body. More columns = wider circumference. Fewer columns = smaller circumference.

2) Convert columns into chains

Use your rule exactly:

• Starting chains = 2 × grid columns

3) Check fit before joining

If you can, wrap the starting chain around the part of your body where the dress will sit (usually high hip or waist, depending on your design). It should be snug but not tight, because lace yarn and filet mesh can relax with wear.

Beginner note: Foundation chains can tighten easily with a 2 mm hook. If your chain feels stiff, try chaining a little looser while keeping the hook size the same, so the bottom edge doesn’t pull in.

Pattern Instructions

Lower Body

• Chain the required length based on your grid calculation
• Slip stitch into the first chain to join in the round
• Chain 2 and work double crochet into every stitch around
• Slip stitch to join the round
• Follow your chosen filet grid design using open and filled squares
• Turn the work at the end of each round to keep the seam straight
• Continue until the lower body reaches the desired height
• Fasten off

1. Just starting out with crochet? The video tutorial below is a great place to begin, or challenge yourself with the written pattern below!

Extra clarity for the lower body section

Why the solid dc round after joining?

• That round gives you a stable base so your filet grid starts evenly. It also makes the fabric less likely to twist or ripple right at the join.

Turning each round (important filet habit):

• When you work in the round without turning, the stitches can lean slightly, and your grid can start looking slanted. Turning at the end of each round helps keep the filet squares stacked neatly and keeps the seam straighter.

Keeping your chart aligned in the round:

• In filet crochet, one shifted stitch early can throw off the whole design.

If your grid begins to drift, count squares again:

• Each open square uses 2 stitches worth of space
• Each filled square uses 3 dc, and those 3 dc still occupy a consistent grid width in the chart logic

Troubleshooting

• My tube is twisting: Make sure your starting chain wasn’t twisted before joining.
• My mesh looks uneven: Check your tension on the chain spaces. The chain stitch often wants to tighten; aim for consistent chain size.
• My chart is not lining up: Recount your columns and confirm the starting chains match the 2× rule.

Front Panel

• Mark the center of the body with stitch markers
• Attach yarn at one marker with a slip knot
• Work back and forth in rows instead of rounds
• Follow the filet grid pattern to form the front panel
• Add open square rows at the top to shape the neckline
• Stop once the neckline height feels comfortable

How to place the markers correctly

• The markers define where your front panel begins and ends.
• Marking the center helps you keep the neckline visually centered on your body.

Why the front panel is worked flat: Working in rows makes neckline shaping much easier. You can build height where you want it and create a clean edge for straps.

Neckline shaping with open squares

“Add open square rows at the top” is a simple shaping method:

• Open squares reduce visual density and create a softer curve effect without needing complex stitch shaping.
• They also keep the neckline edge flexible, which is helpful with lace weight yarn.

Beginner note: If your neckline edge feels too loose, the issue is usually chain tension in the open squares. Keep chains consistent, and consider slightly tighter chains only for the neckline rows.

Straps and Scoop Back

• Begin the first strap using open squares across the top of the front panel
• Decrease at the start of the second row with a double crochet decrease
• Continue working rows until the strap reaches the required length
• Position the strap on the back using stitch markers
• Slip stitch the strap securely to the back edge
• Repeat the same process for the second strap
• Ensure both straps have the same number of rows

Why open squares work well for straps

Open squares keep straps lighter, flexible, and visually consistent with the filet body. With lace weight yarn, a bulky strap can feel stiff, so mesh straps usually sit better.

About the decrease

“Decrease at the start of the second row with a double crochet decrease” gently narrows the strap so it doesn’t flare.

Stitch clarity: dc decrease

A double crochet decrease joins two stitches into one so the strap becomes slightly narrower. Keep that decrease clean and consistent on both straps.

Getting the scoop back even

This is where crocheters often get frustrated, because one strap can end up longer or positioned differently.

Use this simple system:

• Count rows on strap 1 and write the number down.
• Make strap 2 to the exact same row count.
• Use stitch markers on the back edge so both straps attach at the same height.

Troubleshooting

• One strap feels tighter: Your chain spaces may be tighter on that strap. Compare the size of your chain stitches.
• Straps twist when worn: Before slip stitching to attach, lay the strap flat and make sure it isn’t flipped.

Finishing

• Attach yarn to the armholes or neckline
• Work one to two rounds of solid double crochet edging
• Place two double crochets into each open square gap
• Weave in all loose ends and block lightly if desired.

Why edging matters in filet crochet

Filet edges can look a little wavy because chain spaces naturally expand and contract.

A dc edging:

• smooths the outline
• strengthens the neckline and armholes
• helps the dress keep its shape over time

“Two double crochets into each open square gap”

This is a key detail. Those open square gaps are larger than normal stitch tops. Filling them with two dc prevents the edge from dipping.

Blocking note

Lace weight yarn often benefits from gentle blocking:

• It evens out the grid
• It opens the mesh slightly
• It helps the garment drape

Block lightly, especially if you want the dress to keep structure rather than stretch.

Fit and Sizing Guidance

Because this pattern is chart-driven, sizing comes from two controls:

1) Circumference (columns)

• More columns = larger circumference.
• Fewer columns = smaller circumference.

2) Length (rows/rounds)

• More rounds on the lower body = longer dress.

Helpful approach: If you want a more fitted look, choose fewer columns and rely on the natural drape of filet. If you want an easier fit, choose more columns and keep straps positioned so the weight is balanced.

Beginner Notes That Prevent Mistakes

• Count squares, not just stitches. Filet stays neat when you think in grid units.
• Turn at the end of rounds. This keeps the grid stacked and the seam straighter.
• Use stitch markers early. Center points, strap placement, and panel edges are much easier with markers than with guessing.
• Write down strap row counts. This single habit avoids most “uneven strap” problems.

Quick Troubleshooting Checklist

• Wavy edges: Add the dc edging and be consistent with “two dc in each open square gap.”
• Neckline too open: Tighten chain tension on neckline open squares, or stop earlier.
• Chart drifting: Recheck starting chain count and confirm it matches 2× columns.
• Dress riding up: Straps may be too short or attached too close to center back. Move attachment points outward slightly and keep both sides symmetrical.