Free Crochet Top Patchwork Pattern – Top With Chunky Squares

Crochet Top Patchwork

• 6 mm crochet hook
• Chunky yarn in two colors Color A and Color B
• Size 4 black yarn for joining and borders
• Scissors
• Yarn needle

Before You Start

• Moss stitch

What you are making

• This top is built from 11 simple half double crochet squares, then joined into front and back panels.
• A single crochet base round sets up the bottom edge, then you add worked ribbing.
• The top opening gets a clean single crochet border, and the straps are chain-based straps with shell stitches for a decorative finish.

About sizing

Your square size controls everything.

You are given two options:

• Chain 10 and crochet 8 rows (your square will be whatever size your yarn and tension create), or
• Adjust the number of chains and/or rows so each square reaches approximately 11 x 11 cm.

If your squares are not close to the same size, the patchwork will pull and buckle at the joins. The goal is consistency, not perfection to the millimeter.

Quick square consistency check

After you finish your first square:

• Lay it flat without stretching.
• Measure width and height.
• Crochet a second square and compare it to the first.

If square #2 is even slightly larger or smaller, correct it now (tension, hook grip, row count) before making all 11.

Pattern Instructions

Create the Squares

• Create a slip knot and chain 10 or adjust the number of chains to match your desired square width
• Chain 1 and place a half double crochet in the second chain from the hook
• Continue half double crochet across the row for a total of 10 stitches
• Repeat rows until you have 8 rows or until the square measures approximately 11 x 11 cm
• Make a total of 11 squares with 6 squares in Color A and 5 squares in Color B

Stitch clarity for the square

• Chain 1 at the start of the row is your turning chain. It does not count as a stitch here.
• “Half double crochet across the row for a total of 10 stitches” means you should end each row with 10 hdc, not 9, not 11.
• If you tend to lose the last stitch: look for the final stitch at the edge. With hdc, it can tuck in and look like it belongs to the turning chain.

Keeping edges neat (helps joining later)

• Insert your hook under the top two loops as usual for hdc.
• Try to keep your turning chain snug but not tight.
• If your square edges look wavy, your tension may be inconsistent. It will show more once the squares are joined with black yarn.

Assembly

• Arrange the squares in your preferred patchwork layout for the front and back panels
• Use the black yarn to join the squares together starting with the front panel
• Attach the back panel to complete the body of the crop top

Planning your layout without redoing joins

Because you have 6 squares in Color A and 5 squares in Color B, take a moment to lay them out before you join:

• Decide which side is the “right side” of each square (pick the side you like best and keep it consistent).
• Arrange the front and back so the colors look balanced.
• Once you like the layout, take a quick photo. It’s the easiest way to remember the placement while you’re sewing/working joins.

Joining clarity

Your pattern says “use the black yarn to join.” That can be done with several common methods (slip stitch join, single crochet join, whip stitch with a needle). Since the exact join method isn’t specified, the key is this:

• Join the squares in a consistent way so the seams look even.
• Keep your join tension firm enough to hold shape, but not so tight that it puckers the edges.

Bottom Ribbing

• Single crochet evenly along the bottom edge placing one stitch in each square stitch and one stitch at each join
• Chain 5 to begin the ribbing section
• Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and across for a total of 4 single crochets
• Slip stitch into the next two stitches along the bottom edge to secure the ribbing
• Turn and work single crochet in the back loop only across the ribbing
• Repeat the ribbing process all the way around the bottom edge

What this ribbing section is doing

You are creating a base round along the bottom edge first. That gives you a clean, stable foundation. Then you crochet a small ribbing strip outward and anchor it back down as you go, which forms a stretchy hem.

“Single crochet evenly along the bottom edge”

This is one of the spots crocheters often overthink.

The goal is a bottom edge that lies flat:

• “One stitch in each square stitch” means place sc along the bottom edge through the available edge loops/posts.
• “One stitch at each join” is important because seams can create gaps. That extra sc helps prevent holes where squares meet.

Tip: If your bottom edge starts ruffling, you may be placing too many stitches. If it pulls tight, you may be placing too few. Since the pattern calls for “evenly,” adjust placement slightly to keep it flat while still honoring the join stitches.

Ribbing row breakdown

• Chain 5 gives you room to work 4 single crochets back (because you skip the first chain and start in the second chain).
• “Single crochet in the second chain from the hook and across for a total of 4 single crochets” means you will end with 4 sc on the ribbing strip.
• “Slip stitch into the next two stitches along the bottom edge” moves you forward by two stitches so each ribbing strip sits next to the previous one without stacking in the same spot.

Why back loop only matters

“Turn and work single crochet in the back loop only across the ribbing” creates the classic ribbed texture and adds stretch. If you accidentally work through both loops, the ribbing will look flatter and feel stiffer.

Top Border and Straps

• Single crochet evenly around the top opening using black yarn
• Start at the front corner and chain a multiple of 3 based on your size
• Attach the strap chain to the fifth single crochet stitch on the back panel
• Work back along the chain placing 6 double crochets in every third chain to form shell stitches
• Repeat for the second strap

Top border first

The top single crochet round does two useful things:

• It cleans up the edge visually (especially where squares meet).
• It gives you stable stitches to anchor straps.

As with the bottom: keep it even and flat, placing extra attention around seams so you don’t leave gaps.

Strap setup details

• “Start at the front corner and chain a multiple of 3 based on your size” matters because your shells are built by repeating every third chain.
• “Attach the strap chain to the fifth single crochet stitch on the back panel” is your anchor point. Count five single crochet stitches from the back corner (or from the relevant edge point you’re using), then attach.

Tip: Before you commit, pin or clip the strap position on both sides and hold it up to your body or a dress form. A small adjustment in strap placement can change comfort and how the neckline sits.

Shell stitch placement

“Work back along the chain placing 6 double crochets in every third chain” means:

• You are working groups of 6 dc into spaced points along the chain.
• Those clusters form the shell texture.
• Because it’s “every third chain,” having a chain count that is a multiple of 3 keeps spacing consistent.

Finishing

• Add a picot stitch border along the top edge if desired
• Fasten off securely
• Weave in all loose ends neatly

Picot border note

The picot is optional. If you add it, keep your picots consistent in size so the top edge doesn’t ripple.

Weaving in ends for patchwork tops

Patchwork creates more ends than most projects. For a neat, durable finish:

• Weave ends into the black border/join areas when possible (it hides them).
• Weave through several stitches, change direction once, and trim.
• Avoid cutting ends too close on chunky yarn; it can work loose with wear.

Fit and Sizing Guidance

Adjusting width

The width comes mainly from:

• Square width (your starting chain and tension)
• How many squares you use across the front and back

Since the pattern uses a fixed count of 11 squares, the most direct adjustment is changing square size by altering chain count and/or rows until each square reaches the size that fits your body comfortably.

Adjusting length

Length is controlled by:

• Square height (row count)
• Bottom ribbing depth (how many ribbing repeats you work)

If you want more coverage, you can keep the squares close to 11 x 11 cm and simply work the ribbing longer for extra length at the hem.

Beginner Notes That Prevent Common Mistakes

• Count your stitches on the first two rows of every square until your hands “lock in” the rhythm.
• Make all Color A squares first, then Color B squares, so your tension stays consistent within each color.
• Don’t rush joining. Lay out the squares and confirm front and back placement before any black yarn touches them.