The frog closures are what set this top apart crocheted in pink and looped through a diagonal front opening, they give the piece a cheongsam-inspired look that’s genuinely uncommon in crochet patterns. The body itself is worked in simple single crochet rows, so the construction is straightforward and the decorative elements are all added at the finishing stage. It’s a completely different approach to the button-up concept compared to the lace shell stitch cardigan also on the site.
Button-Up Crochet Top
The main body panel is worked flat in rows with a straight rectangle construction — the diagonal neckline comes from the placement of the front opening, not from any complex shaping. The pink picot edging is picked up along all the outer edges once the body is complete, and the frog knots are made separately and attached last. For another sleeveless crop top with distinctive trim detail, the asymmetrical tube top with braided strap uses a similar approach of making the decorative element separately.
Materials & Tools
Yarn: Weight 2 (Fine/Sport) or Weight 3 (Light/DK) light-colored cotton or cotton-blend yarn. Cotton blends offer the perfect mix of breathability, stitch definition, and drape.
Hook: 3.0 mm crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge/correct drape for your selected yarn).
Notions: Scissors, measuring tape, stitch markers (essential for tracking your shaping), and a tapestry needle for weaving in ends.
Sizing & Customization Notes
Because this pattern is worked based on your unique body measurements, it can easily be customized to fit any body type perfectly.
Width: Take your lower waist or hip measurement (whichever is wider where you want the top to sit). Divide this number by 2 to get the width for your Front and Back panels.
Length: Measure from your hip/waist up to your underarm to determine when to start the armhole shaping.
Pro-Tip: Choosing the Right Yarn Weight
If you choose a Weight 2 yarn, your fabric will be lighter and more delicate but will take longer to crochet. A Weight 3 yarn will work up faster and give the top a slightly more structured, crisp look. Always make a small swatch first to ensure you like the feel of the fabric!
Stitch Basics You’ll Use
The Pattern
1. Front Panel (Bottom-Up)
Foundation: Create a foundation chain that matches your calculated panel width (half of your total lower waist/hip measurement). Ensure you have an even number of chains.
Row 1: Double crochet in the third chain from your hook and in each chain across. Turn.
Body Rows: Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch here or throughout), work one double crochet into each stitch across. Repeat this row evenly until the piece matches the depth you want for your side slit.
Splitting for the Side Slit: To create the high side slit, you will now work the left and right sides of the panel separately.
- Left Side: Work your double crochet stitches only halfway across the row. Turn and work back to the edge. Repeat this for several rows until your slit is the desired height. Fasten off.
- Right Side: Attach yarn to the remaining unworked stitches of the split row. Work in double crochet rows to match the exact row count of the left side. Do not fasten off.
Rejoining the Panel: On the next row, work double crochet stitches across the right side, and then continue crocheting directly across the left side stitches to bridge the gap.
- Just starting out with crochet? The video tutorial below is a great place to begin, or challenge yourself with the written pattern below!
Main Body:
- Continue working full-width double crochet rows evenly until the panel reaches your underarm height.
Technique Explainer: The Stacked Single Crochet (STsc)
To get perfectly straight edges without the gaps that a standard “Chain 3” turning chain leaves, use a Stacked Single Crochet at the start of your double crochet rows. To do this: insert your hook into the very first stitch, pull up a loop, and make a single crochet. Then, insert your hook into the left vertical bar of that single crochet you just made, pull up a loop, and make another single crochet on top of it. Tada! A perfect mock-double crochet.
2. Chest and Armhole Shaping
Armhole Decreases: Once you reach underarm height, begin decreasing by one stitch at the beginning and end of your next few rows to create a sloped armhole curve. (Use the DC2tog method outlined below).
Creating the Diagonal Flap: Stop working across the full width of the rows. Fasten off, and reattach your yarn to shape the signature diagonal front opening.
Diagonal Rows: Continue working rows back and forth on just one side of the chest, decreasing by one stitch on the inner edge of every row to create a dramatic, smooth diagonal slope heading toward the shoulder.
Shoulder Finish: Continue this diagonal reduction until you reach your total shoulder height and are left with a narrow shoulder strap. Fasten off.
Technique Explainer: Double Crochet Two Together (DC2tog)
To decrease smoothly along the edges: Yarn over, insert hook into the first stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. You’ve successfully turned two stitches into one!
3. Back Panel
Foundation & Body: Create a foundation chain that matches the exact width of your front panel. Work upward in standard double crochet rows until you reach the underarm height, ensuring your row count matches the front panel perfectly up to this point.
Armhole Shaping: Decrease one stitch at the beginning and end of your rows to mirror the armhole curves of the front panel.
Upper Back: Continue working straight up across these stitches without any further decreases until the back panel total length matches the front panel (measuring up to the highest point of the front shoulder strap). Fasten off.
4. Collar Construction
Seaming: Lay the front and back panels together with right sides facing. Using your tapestry needle and a mattress stitch, seam the shoulder edges together securely.
Base Row: Turn the top right-side out. Attach your yarn evenly at the base of the neckline. Work a row of single crochet evenly all the way around the raw edge of the neckline. Join with a slip stitch to the first stitch.
Collar Rows: Chain 1, work a single crochet (or half double crochet for a slightly softer feel) into each stitch around the neckline. Turn your work at the end of each row to build a straight, standing Mandarin-style collar. Repeat until the collar reaches your preferred height. Fasten off.
5. Edging and Decorative Details
Contrasting Trim: Attach a contrasting color of yarn anywhere along the bottom edge or openings.
Border: Work a clean border of single crochets or slip stitches evenly along the entire diagonal front flap opening, around the top edges of the collar, and around both armholes for a polished, professional pop of color.
Frog Fasteners (Crochet Cords): Chain a length of stitches (or create a sturdy Romanian cord) long enough to loop over your chosen buttons. Securely stitch these loops along the diagonal flap opening to act as button closures.
Buttons: Align and sew your decorative buttons onto the matching under-flap of the diagonal front opening so they perfectly line up with your crochet loops.
6. Assembly and Finishing
Side Seams: Align the front and back panels. Using a tapestry needle and yarn, sew the side seams together from the underarm down to the top of the side slit. Leave the side slits completely open.
Weaving Ends: Securely weave in all loose yarn tails on the inside of the garment using your tapestry needle.
Blocking: Lightly steam block your finished top, paying special attention to the diagonal flap and standing collar. This relaxes the cotton fibers, prevents the edges from curling, and gives your stitches beautiful drape.
