An evil eye motif centered on a granny stitch sweater is the kind of design that stops people mid-scroll the graphic contrast between the white, olive, and black eye and the rainbow stripe background makes this one of those pieces that reads as wearable art rather than just a handmade top. The construction is granny stitch rows throughout, which is approachable, but the color management across that many stripes and the motif placement make this a more involved project than the beginner label suggests. For a simpler entry into the granny stitch sweater format, this patchwork granny square crop top uses the same building-block logic with less color juggling.
Crochet Boho Top Hippie Bohemian
The flared bell sleeves are worked as part of the continuous granny stitch construction rather than set in separately, which keeps the assembly straightforward even with the dramatic silhouette. Multicolor scrap yarn is a practical choice here the stripe sequence doesn’t require large quantities of any single color. For another bold, maximalist crochet top in the same spirit, this boho evil-eye granny sweater takes a different scale and silhouette worth comparing.
Materials
- 100% acrylic yarn in multiple colors
- Black yarn for the pupil
- White yarn for the outer eye
- Green or blue yarn for the iris
- Additional colors for the body and sleeves
- 3.5 mm crochet hook
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
Master These Stitches First
How the Pieces Work Together
This sweater is made in four main stages:
- Eye front panel center – a layered eye motif worked in the round, then shaped into an almond form
- Turning the eye into a square – granny clusters are added around the eye to create a flat, square front panel
- Back panel – a simple granny panel worked flat to match the front
- Assembly and sleeves – panels are joined, then sleeves are worked directly into the armholes
Nothing in the pattern is technically difficult, but the shaping transitions are where crocheters often feel unsure. The explanations below will help you understand why those steps matter.
The Eye Front Panel Center
- Start with a magic ring using black yarn
- Chain 4 and work 12 double crochets into the ring
- Slip stitch to join and fasten off
At this stage, you are forming the pupil of the eye.
- Just starting out with crochet? The video tutorial below is a great place to begin, or challenge yourself with the written pattern below!
- The chain 4 counts as your first double crochet, which is why the stitch count lands correctly at 12.
- Join green or blue yarn and work 2 double crochets into each stitch around
- This round doubles the stitch count and creates the iris. Even increases keep the circle flat, which is important before adding the white section.
- Join white yarn and increase by working 2 double crochets in one stitch and 1 double crochet in the next around
- This staggered increase round gently expands the circle without making it ripple. It gives the eye a softer proportion compared to doubling every stitch.
- Switch to half double crochets to smooth the outer edge
- Half double crochet shortens the stitch height, which helps soften the curve and prepares the fabric for shaping.
- Join yarn at one side and work rows of half double crochet, decreasing at both ends to form a pointed almond shape
- Repeat the shaping on the opposite side
This is where the eye shape appears.
- Decreasing at both ends pulls the fabric inward, turning the circle into an almond form.
- Working one side at a time keeps the shaping symmetrical.
- Work one full round of half double crochet in white around the eye
- Work one full round of half double crochet in black around the eye
- These rounds stabilize the shape and visually frame the eye.
- The black round adds contrast and definition before moving into granny construction.
Turning the Eye into a Square
- Begin working granny clusters around the eye shape
- You are now transitioning from organic shaping to geometric construction.
- This step may feel strange at first, but the corners will naturally form as you add chain spaces.
- At each corner, work two clusters separated by a chain three space
- The chain three spaces create true corners.
- Without them, the piece would curl instead of lying flat.
- Continue around using three double crochets and chain one between clusters
- This keeps the fabric flexible and evenly spaced.
- Use double crochets for green body rows
- Use half double crochets for black rows to create contrast
- Changing stitch height is intentional.
- The double crochet rows add openness, while the half double crochet rows visually ground the design and reduce stretch.
- Keep adding rows evenly until the piece measures approximately 53 cm or your desired shoulder width
- This measurement determines the overall width of the sweater.
- Stop here rather than counting rows, as gauge and yarn choice can vary.
The Back Panel
- Chain a foundation that matches the width of the front panel
- Matching width is more important than matching stitch count. Lay the front panel flat and measure it before chaining.
- Work rows of granny clusters back and forth across the chain
- Continue until the height matches the front panel
- The back panel is intentionally simple to balance the detailed front.
- Leave a centered opening for the neckline
- Work shoulder sections separately until they align with the front shoulders
- This creates a clean neckline without cutting yarn or adding shaping later.
Assembly
- Place the front and back panels together with right sides facing inward
- Join the shoulder seams using slip stitch or single crochet
- Choose the joining method based on how firm you want the seam.
- Slip stitch creates a flatter seam, while single crochet adds structure.
- Join the side seams while leaving wide openings for the armholes
- Leave generous armholes. Boho sweaters rely on relaxed fit rather than tight shaping.
The Sleeves
- Join yarn at the armhole opening
- Work granny clusters evenly in the round
- Working in the round avoids seams and keeps the sleeve drape consistent.
- Continue for approximately 20 rows without increasing
- This creates a straight upper sleeve that sits comfortably on the arm.
- Add four increases per round to create a flared boho sleeve shape
- Spacing the increases evenly keeps the flare smooth instead of ruffled.
- Continue working evenly without increases until the sleeve reaches the desired length
- Fasten off and weave in all ends
Try the sweater on as you go to adjust sleeve length to your preference.
Fit and Sizing Guidance
- This pattern is naturally oversized and flexible
- Width is controlled at the front panel stage
- Sleeve flare can be subtle or dramatic depending on how many increase rounds you add
- Acrylic yarn has limited stretch, so aim for ease rather than snug fit
Stitch and Shaping Clarity
- Half double crochet is used intentionally to smooth curves and edges
- Granny clusters provide structure while remaining flexible
- Decreases in the eye panel are what create the almond shape, not the color changes
Understanding this makes troubleshooting much easier if your shape looks off.
Beginner Notes
- Count stitches at the end of each round in the eye section
- Use stitch markers at the corners when squaring the eye
- Lay the work flat often to check that it is not twisting or curling
Troubleshooting
- Eye looks wavy: Too many stitches or loose tension during increase rounds
- Square is pulling: Corner chain spaces may be missing or too tight
- Sleeves flare too fast: Reduce the number of increase rounds
Small adjustments early prevent big problems later.
Finishing Notes
- Weave in ends as you complete each color section to avoid bulk
- Lightly steam block if your yarn allows, especially around the eye motif
- Blocking helps the granny square sit flat and improves drape
