The cups, the lace-up waist, and the dramatic flared peplum make this one of the more ambitious tops in the peplum family — but the result is the kind of piece that looks like it took longer than it did. The olive green works especially well with the open lace structure, letting both the stitch and the colour do their job. For a peplum top with a simpler, more covered silhouette, the peplum top with sleeves is a granny stitch version worth comparing.
Crochet Peplum Top Green
The cups are built from puff stitch clusters for a raised, structured fit, while the body and peplum open up into long treble columns that give the skirt section its sweep. The lace-up back is threaded through at the end rather than built in, keeping the shaping flexible. For another top that uses puff stitch as a design feature, the flower motif top channels the same raised texture into petal details.
Materials & Tools
- Weight 3 (light/DK) yarn suitable for a 3.5 mm hook
- 3.5 mm crochet hook
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
- Darning needle
- Stitch markers
Your Stitch Toolkit
Difficulty & Time
Solidly intermediate. The stitch vocabulary — puff stitches, front and back post double crochet, treble crochet two together, picots — is all approachable, but the cup shaping and the made-to-measure panel reward patience. Budget a few relaxed sessions; the cups and peplum length are the two pieces that stretch the timeline depending on how much coverage you want.
Technique Notes (read these first)
The cups are the heart of this top, so take them slowly. They start in a magic ring and grow through a puff-stitch round, then a double-crochet round with three increase points that shape the cup into a curve. Mark each corner chain space as you make it — those three points are your reference for every round after, and they’re easy to lose once the cup gets busy with post stitches.
When you move into the alternating front-post/back-post rounds, keep your tension even and consistent. Post stitches naturally pull the fabric tighter, so if your cup is cupping too hard, loosen your hand slightly rather than changing the stitch. Make your second cup to the exact same round count as the first — count, don’t eyeball it, or you’ll end up with a lopsided front that’s hard to correct later.
For the peplum panel, measure your ribcage and subtract before you chain — the missing 4 inches is your back opening, where the lace-up closure lives. Honor the multiple of 6 plus 2 when you chain, because the whole lace sequence depends on that stitch count working out evenly across the row. If your starting chain doesn’t divide cleanly, the lace repeats won’t either. A foundation that’s a touch loose makes that first double-crochet row far easier to work into.
Block the cups and panel before assembly. Wet- or steam-blocking relaxes the post-stitch texture and opens up the lace, which makes everything sit flatter when you seam — and lets you measure strap length against a settled, finished shape instead of a curled edge.
The Pattern
Phase 1 — The Cups (Make 2)
- Create a magic ring. Chain 2 and work 13 half double crochet into the ring, for a total of 14 stitches.
- Chain 1 and work one puff stitch into each stitch, with chain 1 between each puff stitch. Work 3 single crochet into every chain space and slip stitch to join.
- Chain 2 and work double crochet in the next 6 stitches. In the next stitch, work 2 double crochet, chain 1, 2 double crochet to form a point. Work double crochet in the next 14 stitches. In the next stitch, work 2 double crochet, chain 1, 2 double crochet. Work double crochet in the next 11 stitches. In the next stitch, work 2 double crochet, chain 1, 2 double crochet. Work double crochet in the remaining stitches to complete three points.
- Continue working rounds, alternating front post double crochet and back post double crochet. In each corner chain space, work 1 double crochet, chain 1, 1 double crochet. Repeat until the cup reaches your desired coverage.
- Make the second cup with the same number of rounds.
Phase 2 — Bottom Panel Peplum
- Measure your ribcage and subtract 4 inches for the back opening. Chain to match this measurement, using a multiple of 6 plus 2 extra chains.
- Work one full row of double crochet. Work one full row of single crochet.
- Chain 6 and work treble crochet two together into the first stitch. Skip 4 stitches and work treble crochet two together in the next stitch. Chain 4 and work treble crochet two together in the following stitch. Repeat this lace sequence across the row.
- Continue following the lace and flower pattern repeats to build the peplum length. Stop when the peplum reaches your desired length.
- Finish the bottom edge with a single crochet border and picot stitches.
Phase 3 — Assembly and Straps
- Place the cups and peplum panel with wrong sides facing. Attach the cups to the top edge of the panel using single crochet.
- Measure from the top of the cup, over the shoulder, to the back panel. Create a foundation row in double crochet using a multiple of 6 plus 1. Work the same lace pattern used in the peplum for the straps. Attach the straps securely to the cups and back panel.
- Work a final single crochet and picot border around the neckline and strap edges.
- Create four long crochet cords for the back ties. Attach the cords to the back corners for a lace-up closure.
Yarn Substitution
The 3.5 mm hook and light weight 3 yarn are doing real work here, so stay close to that pairing. A cotton or cotton blend in DK/light weight gives the crisp stitch definition the puff cups and lace need, plus enough body to hold the peplum’s flare. A bamboo or viscose blend will drape softer and swing more at the hem if you want a more fluid look — just expect slightly less structure in the cups. Avoid anything heavy or very fuzzy; loose halo obscures the lace pattern and weighs the peplum down so it droops instead of flaring.
Customization Ideas
- Cup coverage: Add or drop post-stitch rounds to size the cups up or down — just keep both identical.
- Peplum length: Stop short for cropped, or keep stacking lace repeats for a longer, tunic-leaning hem.
- Back closure: The four-cord lace-up is adjustable and forgiving across sizes, but you could swap in a button placket if you prefer a fixed back.
- Edging: The single-crochet-and-picot border is delicate; a plain single-crochet edge reads cleaner and more modern if picots aren’t your style.
FAQ
How do I keep the two cups matching? Count rounds rather than judging by eye, and mark your three corner chain spaces on each cup so your increases line up the same way every round. Make the second cup to the identical round count as the first, and block them together before assembly.
Why does my peplum lace not line up across the row? It almost always traces back to the starting chain. The lace sequence relies on the multiple of 6 plus 2, so if your foundation chain doesn’t hit that count, the repeats won’t divide evenly. Recount your chain before committing to the first lace row.
How do I get the back opening and lace-up to fit right? Measure your ribcage and subtract 4 inches before chaining the panel — that gap is the back opening. The four cords then lace across it, so the closure adjusts to snug or ease the fit. Try the assembled body against you before fixing the straps.
