Spider stitch earns its name worked up in black cotton, the radiating spokes lock together into something that genuinely looks like intricate lacework, even though each motif follows the same simple sequence. The boat neckline and straight silhouette here keep the shaping minimal so the stitch can do all the talking. If you’ve already made this open weave fan stitch triangle top and you’re ready for a different kind of lace structure, this is a natural next step.
Crochet Black Lace Top
Working in black yarn has a reputation for being tricky on the eyes, but the spider stitch repeat is consistent enough that you find your rhythm quickly and the payoff is a top that layers beautifully over a fitted white underlayer or a slip dress. Hobbii Rainbow cotton is the yarn shown here, which gives the motifs clean definition without too much stiffness. For another sleeveless lace top with a similar layering instinct, this white lace ribbed pullover is worth a look as a contrast piece.
Before You Start What This Top Is Doing
- This piece begins as a large ring made from repeated eyelet sets and long connecting chains.
- That ring becomes the body of the top. You then build the spider stitch into that ring in rounds to create length.
- When the body is long enough, you fold the tube flat, mark front and back, and work rows to build the upper panels.
- The boat neckline is created by leaving an opening in the center when you join the shoulders.
The lace texture comes from two things:
- V clusters placed into the foundation spaces
- Chain bridges that change length depending on what they sit over (eyelet section vs long chain section)
Those different chain lengths are what keep the stitch pattern balanced instead of pulling tight in one area.
Materials
- Yarn Rainbow 100 percent cotton size 1 super fine
- 3.0 mm crochet hook
Crochet Knowledge You’ll Need
Why the chain counts change
You will be chaining:
- 11 chains over eyelet sections
- 9 chains over long foundation chains
- 5 chains, cinch single crochet, 5 chains for the spider center
The longer chain count (11) gives more room over the smaller eyelet section. The slightly shorter chain count (9) prevents sagging over the long connecting chains. If your fabric looks uneven, it’s usually because the chain counts got swapped or a bridge was anchored into the wrong space.
Fit and Sizing Guidance
This pattern is size-adjustable at the foundation stage by changing the number of eyelet sets:
- 8 eyelet sets for small or medium size
- 10 sets for large
- 12 sets for extra large
- Ensure the total number of sets is even
- Never read a crochet pattern before? No problem! The video tutorial below is perfect for beginners, or give the written pattern below a try!
A helpful way to sanity-check sizing before joining into a ring:
- Lay the foundation around your upper bust/shoulder area (where you want the top to sit).
- It should comfortably fit without stretching the eyelets open too much.
- Cotton can relax with wear, so aim for a comfortable fit rather than a loose, droopy ring.
If you are between sizes, choose based on how you want the neckline to sit:
- Fewer sets usually gives a slightly more secure neckline.
- More sets gives more ease and a wider drape.
Gauge and Tension Notes
With size 1 cotton and a 3.0 mm hook, tension matters in two places:
- Foundation eyelets: too tight and it becomes hard to insert clusters later.
- Chain bridges: too loose and the lace can look sloppy and uneven.
Try to make your chains consistent in height. If your chains tend to run tight, you can consciously loosen just the chain stitches while keeping your double crochet tension normal.
Foundation Base Chain
- Make a slip knot, chain 4, and work 1 double crochet into the first chain to create the first eyelet
- Chain 4, skip 2 chains, and work 1 double crochet into the third chain to form the second eyelet
- Chain 14 to create the connecting chain
- Repeat two eyelets followed by 14 chains until you have 8 eyelet sets for small or medium size
- Use 10 sets for large or 12 sets for extra large ensuring the total number of sets is even
- Finish the last set with 11 chains instead of 14
- Join with a slip stitch into the first eyelet to form a ring
Helpful clarity for this section (without changing your steps):
- You are building repeating units: two eyelets, then a long chain.
- Count “sets” the same way every time. Pick one method and stick to it (for example: one “eyelet set” = the sequence of two eyelets + the following chain section).
- That final “11 chains instead of 14” helps the join sit cleaner and keeps the foundation from twisting into a bump.
Main Spider Stitch Pattern
- Create a V cluster by working 3 incomplete double crochets closed together, chain 2, then 3 incomplete double crochets closed together in the same space
- Work V clusters into each eyelet around the round
- Separate V clusters with 11 chains over eyelet sections
- Separate V clusters with 9 chains over long foundation chains
How to stay oriented in Round 1:
- Every V cluster is anchored into an eyelet space.
- Your chain bridges alternate in length depending on what the bridge is spanning.
- If you lose track, pause and look at the foundation: the small eyelet section and the long chain section are visually different. Match the chain count to what you see.
Spider Formation Rows
- Continue working V clusters directly over the V clusters from the previous round
- Chain 5, work 1 single crochet by grabbing and cinching the chain spaces from previous rows together, then chain 5
- Continue this process to form the spider center
What “cinching” means in practice:
- You are pulling together the chain spaces so the center of the spider forms a tight point.
- If your cinch looks loose, it usually means you only caught one chain space. Make sure you are grabbing the chain spaces you intended to pull together before making the single crochet.
Body Length
- Repeat the six row sequence consisting of one row with 11 chains
- Work three rows using 9 chains
- Work one row with 5 chains, single crochet spider cinch, and 5 chains
- Work one row with 2 chains
- Continue repeating until the top reaches the desired length before the armholes
Keeping the six-row sequence organized:
- This is a great place to use a stitch marker or a scrap yarn “row tag.”
- At the end of the “2 chains” row, you have completed one full sequence. Mark that round so you always know where you are.
- If your lace starts leaning or spiraling, double-check that you truly did three rows of 9 chains in a row and didn’t accidentally switch back to 11 early.
Armholes and Neckline
- Fold the piece flat and mark front and back sections
- Leave one spider motif on each side to form the armholes
- Attach yarn at the front marker and work back and forth in rows instead of rounds
- Continue until the front panel reaches the desired height
- Repeat the same steps for the back panel
Armhole placement tip:
- “Leave one spider motif on each side” means each side opening is the width of one full spider unit.
- Take a moment here to try the tube on (or pin it to a top you like) before committing. Small adjustments are much easier before you crochet upward into the panels.
Switching from rounds to rows:
- When you stop working in the round, your turning chains and edges start to matter.
- Keep your row edges neat because they become the shoulder seams and neckline opening.
Finishing and Shoulders
- Turn the garment inside out
- Join the front and back panels at the shoulders using slip stitches
- Leave approximately 20 centimeters open at the center for the boat neckline
- Fasten off and weave in all yarn ends
- Allow the V clusters to form the natural decorative edging around the armholes
Why join inside out:
- Slip stitch seams can create a visible ridge. Working inside out keeps that ridge on the inside so the outside looks clean.
Neckline check before you fasten off:
- Measure the 20 centimeters opening and also do a quick try-on check.
- Boat necklines are meant to sit wide, but you still want it to feel secure on the shoulders.
Beginner Notes That Prevent Common Mistakes
- Use stitch markers early. Mark the first eyelet and the first V cluster so you always know where your round begins.
- Count chain bridges, not just clusters. Many lace errors happen when the chain count changes in the wrong place.
- Don’t tug the chains while measuring. If you stretch chain bridges, you can accidentally make some bridges longer than others.
- Cotton relaxes. Your top may lengthen slightly after wearing. If you want it to hit at a specific point, stop a little shorter than you think.
Troubleshooting
My fabric is rippling or ruffling
- Most often this happens when the chain bridges are too long for your tension.
- Double-check that you used 9 chains over long foundation chains and 11 chains over eyelet sections, not the other way around.
My spiders do not have a clear center
- The cinch single crochet likely didn’t catch the chain spaces you meant to pull together.
- Try slowing down and physically pinch the chain spaces together with your fingers before you single crochet into them.
My join looks twisted or bumpy
- Make sure the ring is not twisted before joining.
- The final “11 chains instead of 14” helps the join sit neatly, but only if the foundation is lying flat when you slip stitch.
My neckline feels too wide
- This is usually a sizing issue from the foundation ring or from leaving a larger opening than intended.
- Keep the “approximately 20 centimeters” opening consistent and make sure your shoulder joins are symmetrical.
Finishing Notes for a Clean, Professional Look
- Weave in ends along the thicker parts of the V clusters so they disappear inside the texture.
- If your armhole edging flares more than you like, a gentle steam block (very light, not pressed) can help settle cotton lace.
- Lay flat to dry after blocking so the spider motifs hold their shape.
