High-waist bottoms, spaghetti straps, and a smooth cup shape that sits close without being fussy this set has a clean, wearable silhouette that holds up well outside the water too. The ladder trim detail along the waistband of the bottoms adds just enough visual interest without complicating the construction, and if you want to compare cup shaping approaches, the free crochet bralette top pattern with mesh trim and corset back is a useful reference alongside this one.
Crochet Bikini Top
Both pieces work up in rows, so there are no motifs to join and no complicated shaping sequences to track what you see in the finished set is mostly tension and finishing. For another beginner-accessible bikini with a different take on the top silhouette, the free crochet swimsuit bottoms tie-side pattern covers the bottom half if you want to mix and match pieces.
Materials
- Lightweight cotton yarn approximately 50 grams
- 3.5 mm crochet hook
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Darning needle
- Optional shirring elastic for extra support
Before You Start
What you are making
This top is built from two single crochet cups, then you add a small inner chest join, a short back band, a simple mesh trim, and long lace up shoulder straps that thread through the back band.
Skill level
Confident beginner and up. You’ll be doing single crochet, simple decreases, and keeping track of a center stitch with a marker.
Helpful setup tips
- Use a stitch marker you can move easily. You will move it every time you make the 3 single crochets at the point.
- Count rows as you go. Even if you work made to measure, row counting keeps both cups identical.
- Cotton matters here. Lightweight cotton gives grip and structure, which helps the cups hold shape.
Fit and Sizing Guidance
How to choose the starting chain
Your first chain is measured from the top of the cup down to the bust point. That measurement controls cup height.
A good way to check:
- Hold the chain vertically against your body where the cup will sit.
- The top of the chain should land where you want the cup edge to finish.
- The end of the chain should land at your bust point.
The pattern suggests about 18 chains as a reference. If you need more coverage, add chains. If you want a smaller cup, reduce chains.
How to know when the cup is wide enough
Cup width is controlled by the repeated shaping rows. You stop when the cup can cover the bust comfortably from inner edge to outer edge. The pattern suggests about twelve rows, but it’s made-to-measure.
Keeping both cups identical
Write down:
- Starting chain count
- Total rows you worked for the cup
- When you began the inner chest band shaping
That small habit prevents the most common bralette problem: cups that look “almost” the same but don’t sit evenly.
Pattern Instructions
Create the Main Cups
- Make a slip knot and chain a length from the top of the cup to the bust point, about 18 chains
- Single crochet into the second chain from the hook and in each chain across
- Work three single crochets into the last chain, then single crochet along the opposite side of the foundation chain
- Place a stitch marker in the center stitch of the three single crochets at the point
- Chain one, turn, and single crochet in each stitch until the marker
- Work three single crochets into the marked stitch and move the marker to the new center stitch
- Single crochet in each remaining stitch to the end
- Chain one, turn, decrease over the first two stitches, single crochet across to the point
- Work three single crochets in the marked stitch
- Single crochet down the other side, then decrease over the last two stitches
- Repeat this shaping until the cup is wide enough to cover the bust, about twelve rows
- Make a second identical cup
- If you’re new to reading crochet patterns, don’t worry, just follow along with the video tutorial below and use the written pattern as a reference!
Extra guidance for this section
- After the very first “around the chain” row, your work becomes an oval that grows into a triangle-like cup. That growth happens because the point stitch is always expanded with 3 single crochets.
- When you begin the decrease row, pay attention to the edges. Your decreases should happen cleanly on both sides so the top line stays neat.
Shape the Inner Chest Band
- Stop decreasing at the top edge and begin decreasing near the point
- Single crochet from the top down toward the point
- Skip the center stitch at the point and instead decrease over the two stitches before it
- Chain one, turn, and decrease immediately over the first two stitches
- Single crochet back up to the top
- Repeat until each inner panel reaches the center of the chest
What this shaping should look like
- At this stage you are forming the inner chest panels that will meet in the middle.
- The top edge stays more stable, and the shaping happens closer to the point so the inner edges angle inward neatly.
- A common confusion here is “where exactly is the point stitch?”
- You are still using that marked center area as your reference, but the instruction is telling you not to work the center point stitch directly.
- You shift the shaping slightly to control how the cups meet at the center chest.
Assembly and Back Band
- Stitch the two inner chest panels together using a whip stitch or mattress stitch
- Join yarn to the outer side of one cup
- Work several rows of double crochet to form a short back band, about twelve stitches per row
- Repeat for the other side if desired
Assembly tips that prevent gaps
- Pin or clip the inner panels before stitching. Even one-row difference will show, so lining up row ends helps.
- Whip stitch vs mattress stitch: whip stitch is quick and sturdy; mattress stitch looks cleaner and flatter from the outside. Either works, so choose based on the finish you want.
Decorative Trim
Work one double crochet, chain two, skip two stitches around the entire edge of the top
Keeping the trim even
If your edging starts ruffling or pulling:
- Ruffling usually means the trim is too loose for the edge shape (try keeping your chains consistent and not too long).
- Pulling usually means the trim is too tight (relax tension or ensure you truly skip two stitches each time).
Shoulder Straps and Finishing
- Join yarn to the top point of each cup
- Chain a long length to go over the shoulder and through the back band
- Work the mesh pattern of double crochet and chain two back down the chain
- Weave shirring elastic through the bottom edge if extra underbust support is needed
- Weave in all loose ends
- Lace the long straps through the back band and tie securely
Strap notes that help with fit
- Make the chain long on purpose. You can always tie shorter, but a strap that is too short will pull the cup upward and distort the shaping.
- When you lace through the back band, aim for even tension on both sides so the cups sit level.
Beginner Notes
- Turn chains and edges: The pattern uses “chain one, turn” for single crochet rows. Keep that chain snug so you don’t get loose edge loops.
- Use stitch markers beyond the point: If you struggle with symmetry, place a marker at the start of each row and count stitches to the point on both sides.
- Don’t rush the second cup: The second cup should be a direct repeat of the first. Matching matters more than speed.
Troubleshooting
My cup point looks off center
This almost always means the marker drifted. Make sure you place it in the middle stitch of the 3 single crochets every time you work the point.
One cup is bigger than the other
Compare:
- Starting chain count
- Total number of rows
- Whether you began decreases on the same row
If they differ, you can often fix it by adding or removing one shaping row on the smaller cup before moving on.
The top edge is wavy
Waviness usually comes from inconsistent decreases or turning tension. Keep your decreases clean and make sure you decrease on both ends exactly when instructed.
The band feels loose
That is where the optional support helps:
- Use the shirring elastic step, and weave it evenly so it supports without puckering.
Finishing Notes
- Weave in ends firmly along the denser single crochet areas so they don’t show through the mesh trim.
- When tying the straps, tie once, try the top on, then retie with final tension. Small adjustments make a big difference in comfort and support.
Stitch and Shaping Clarity
Understanding the “point”
- The cup point is created by three single crochets worked into one stitch.
- The middle of those three stitches is the true point.
- That is why you place a marker there and keep moving it.
- If the marker is off by one stitch, your cup can start leaning or twisting slightly over several rows.
What the decreases are doing
- Decreases at the start and end of a row pull the top edge inward, shaping the cup so it curves instead of becoming a flat oval.
- Later, when you stop decreasing at the top edge, you keep that top line stable while shaping the inner chest area.
A quick note on single crochet decreases
- The pattern says “decrease over the first two stitches” and “decrease over the last two stitches.”
- Use your preferred single crochet decrease method (many crocheters like an invisible decrease), but keep it consistent on both cups.
