Petite frames get shortchanged by store-bought swim straps too long, cups too deep, bottoms cut for someone taller. Crocheting your own fixes all of it, and this cream set makes the case beautifully: neat triangle cups, tie sides you can set to your own length, and a front panel dotted with soft raised texture. It has more going on than a plain make, so it sits nicely beside this mustard bikini set if you’re weighing textured versus smooth.
Crochet Bikinis For Petite Women
The panel that gives this set its character is worked in a bobble stitch, those little popcorn bumps spaced across the front for a bit of dimension, while the leg openings are finished with a shell stitch trim that gives a soft scalloped edge instead of a flat border. Everything else stays in simple rows, so you get two pretty texture moments without the whole thing turning fiddly — a good confidence-builder if you’ve done a plain bikini and want to level up.
Materials
- 2.5 mm crochet hook
- Cotton yarn recommended for swimwear
- Stitch markers
- Scissors
- Tapestry needle
- Lining fabric and sewing supplies
Notes Before You Start
- This written version follows the medium size counts given
- You can customize by adjusting the starting chain for crotch width and the number of increase rows
- Keep stitch count consistent so the shell trim fits evenly
- Consider lining before wearing in water
Crochet Knowledge You’ll Need
How to customize without losing the pattern structure
- Crotch width comes from your starting chain. If you need more coverage, add chains to the foundation. If you want a narrower crotch, reduce the chain count. Keep the rest of the instructions the same, but remember: changing the width changes how many shells you’ll fit later.
- Height and coverage come from rows. The front panel grows in height first (the straight rows), then the shaping increases add both height and width.
- Stitch markers are your best friend here. Use them to mark the “center” of the cup increases and to keep track of increase rows on the bottom so both sides stay symmetrical.
Swimwear reality check
Crochet fabric can shift and relax when wet. Even with the right yarn, lining is what makes this wearable with confidence. If you plan to wear it in water, treat lining as part of the build, not an afterthought.
Bikini Bottom
Front Panel
Foundation And Base
- Chain 15 plus 1 turning chain
- Single crochet in second chain from hook
- Single crochet in each chain across
- Chain 1 and turn
- Single crochet in each stitch across
- Repeat single crochet rows until you have 16 total rows
What this section is doing
This is your stable base panel. Those 16 rows give you a firm rectangle before shaping starts, which helps the bottom sit smoothly rather than immediately flaring. Keep your edges neat here—straight sides make the later shell trim look much cleaner.
Helpful tip for clean edges
If your edges look bumpy, check these two habits:
- Always work your last stitch of the row (it’s easy to miss in single crochet).
- Make your turning chain consistent (chain 1, turn, then the first single crochet goes right into the first stitch).
- Still getting the hang of reading crochet patterns? That’s completely okay, the video tutorial below breaks everything down in a simple, beginner-friendly way!
Shaping With Increases
- For increase row
- Single crochet in first stitch
- Work 2 single crochet in second stitch
- Single crochet in each stitch across until 2 stitches remain
- Work 2 single crochet in second to last stitch
- Single crochet in last stitch
For no increase row
- Chain 1 and turn
- Single crochet in each stitch across
Repeat increase row then no increase row until piece measures about 20 cm tall
How the shaping works
You’re increasing near both edges (second stitch and second-to-last stitch). That keeps the edges stable and avoids bulky corner increases, while still widening the panel in a balanced way.
This section alternates:
- One increase row (adds width gradually)
- One plain row (locks in the shape)
That alternating rhythm helps the panel widen smoothly instead of flaring too quickly.
Measurement note
“About 20 cm tall” is a practical checkpoint. If you want more front coverage, you can extend this section, but keep your increase symmetry consistent so the shell trim still lands evenly later.
Final Shaping
- Work increase row every row
- Continue until total stitch count reaches 67 stitches
Why the increases change here
At this point you’re building the top width of the front panel so it matches the back panel width later. Increasing every row creates a more noticeable flare, which is what gives the bottom its coverage across the hips.
Stitch count matters
Reaching 67 stitches is key because the back panel is also built to reach 67. Matching counts makes the trim and finishing feel “designed,” not forced.
Shell Trim On Front
Shell Row 1
- Single crochet in first stitch
- Skip 2 stitches
- Work 5 double crochet in next stitch
- Skip 2 stitches
- Single crochet in next stitch
- Repeat across to end
Shell Row 2
- Chain 3
- Work 2 double crochet into same stitch
- Skip 2 stitches
- Single crochet into middle stitch of next shell
- Work 5 double crochet into the single crochet stitch from the row below
- Repeat across
Repeat Shell Trim
Repeat Shell Row 1 and Shell Row 2 until you have 15 rows of shell trim total
Reading the shell structure
- Shell Row 1 sets the repeating pattern: sc, skip 2, 5 dc, skip 2, sc
- Shell Row 2 stacks new shells so they sit neatly between the shells below.
Common issue: shells don’t land evenly
If you get to the end and the repeat feels “off,” it usually means one of these happened:
- Your stitch count isn’t lining up with the skip pattern.
- One skipped stitch section became a skip 1 or skip 3 by accident.
- A shell is placed into the wrong stitch.
Best fix: count across slowly for the first row of shells. Once that row is clean, the rest tends to behave.
Keeping the edge neat
Shells add height and wave. If your trim starts to ruffle too much, check your tension. If it curls tight, your tension may be too firm or you may be skipping too much spacing.
Back Panel
Attach And Build
- Attach yarn to the starting foundation chain of the front panel
- Work 2 rows of single crochet across the 15 stitches
Why you attach here
- This creates a connected build that keeps the crotch area aligned and avoids bulky joins later. Those first 2 rows also stabilize the transition before increases start.
Increase To Match Width
- At beginning of each row work 2 single crochet in first stitch
- Single crochet across
- At end of row work 2 single crochet in last stitch
- Repeat increasing every row until stitch count reaches 67
How this differs from the front increases
- The back increases are more direct: you increase in the first and last stitch. That grows width quickly and creates a wider back coverage area.
- Use a stitch marker on the first stitch of the row if you tend to lose it—this is where mistakes usually happen.
Build Height
- Continue until you have 50 rows total for the back panel
Fit note
- The back panel is taller than the initial front base section, which is typical for coverage and comfort. If you adjust this, do it by adding or subtracting rows while keeping your stitch count at 67.
Add Shell Trim
- Work the same shell trim for 15 rows to match the front panel
Matching matters
- Even if your shell trim looks perfect on one side, count your trim rows so the front and back align visually when worn. Fifteen rows on both panels keeps the set balanced.
Bikini Top
Cups Make 2
Foundation
- Chain 18
Row 1 Cup Base
- Double crochet in fourth chain from hook
- Double crochet in each chain up to last chain
- In last chain work 5 double crochet
- Place stitch marker in the middle of the 5 double crochet group
- Continue double crochet down the other side of the foundation chain
What’s happening in Row 1
You’re crocheting around the foundation chain to create a symmetrical base. The 5 double crochet in the last chain forms the turning curve at the bottom point, and the middle of that group becomes your increase anchor for every row.
That stitch marker is not optional if you want clean, even cup shaping.
Rows 2 To 10
- Chain 3 and turn
- Double crochet in each stitch until you reach the marked stitch
- In the marked stitch work 5 double crochet
- Move stitch marker to the middle of the new 5 double crochet group
- Double crochet in each stitch to end
- Repeat until you have 10 rows total
Why the cup grows so neatly
Each row adds width because of the centered 5 double crochet increase. Placing the marker in the middle stitch of the 5 keeps the “spine” of the triangle straight, so the cup doesn’t twist or lean.
If your triangle starts to skew
This almost always means the marker drifted.
Fix it by checking:
- Did you place the marker in the true middle dc of the 5?
- Did you accidentally work more or fewer than 5 dc in the increase stitch?
Shell Border On Cup
- Work one row of the same shell trim along the curved edge of the cup
- Use single crochet between shells as needed to keep edge neat
Making shells behave on curves
Curves don’t always match a perfect skip pattern. “Use single crochet between shells as needed” is your permission to adjust spacing so the shells sit flat. The goal is a smooth scallop, not forcing exact skips where the curve can’t support it.
Straps And Finishing
Braided Style Cord Straps
- Hold two strands of yarn
- Wrap tail strand around hook
- Use working strand to pull through loop
- Repeat to create sturdy cord
Why two strands
Two strands give a firmer, less stretchy tie. For swimwear, that helps straps keep their length and support.
Bottom Side Ties
- Make two long cords
- Thread through chain 2 gaps along sides of shell trim on bottoms
- Tie at hips
Placement tip
Thread the ties through evenly on both sides so the bottom doesn’t sit higher on one hip. If your shell trim gaps vary, choose matching spots visually rather than guessing.
Top Ties
- Make two cords for neck ties
- Attach at top points of cups
- Make one very long cord for underbust
- Thread through bottom gaps of both cups
- Tie at back
Support note
The underbust tie is doing most of the support work. If you need more security, make this cord slightly wider or sturdier by using tighter tension or a thicker strand.
Lining Optional But Recommended
- Place crochet piece on fabric
- Trace shape
- Cut lining slightly smaller
- Hand sew lining to inside edges
- Keep stitches neat and hidden
When to line
- If you plan to wear this in water
- If you want more coverage and comfort
- If you want the set to hold its shape longer
Lining tip for a clean finish
- Cut the lining slightly smaller so it doesn’t peek out around the edges.
- Hand sewing with small, neat stitches makes the lining feel like part of the garment rather than an add-on.
Final Finishing
- Weave in all ends securely
- Try on and adjust strap lengths
- If shells or ties curl lightly block and lay flat to dry
Finishing notes that make this look polished
- Weave ends in along the densest parts (single crochet sections) so they don’t shift.
- Try on before you fully commit to tie lengths. It’s much easier to shorten than to remake cords.
- For light blocking, focus on the shell edges—just enough to relax curling without stretching the fabric out.
Troubleshooting Guide
My shell trim is curling
- Tension is likely too tight, or the fabric is being pulled by the shells.
- Try relaxing your tension on the shell stitches, or lightly block the trim flat.
My shells don’t repeat evenly across
- Recount your stitch total and check that you didn’t miss a stitch on the base row.
- Make sure the “skip 2” spacing stayed consistent.
My cup triangle is leaning to one side
- The marker probably drifted off-center.
- Confirm you’re always placing it in the middle of the 5 double crochet group.
The bottoms feel too narrow at the crotch
- Adjust the starting chain next time.
- For this version, consider lining and wearing with the side ties a little looser for comfort.
