One shoulder out, sleeves slouching past your wrists, whole thing sliding around exactly the way it’s supposed to. That’s the appeal of an off-shoulder crochet sweater — it’s meant to look undone, which means a fit that isn’t precisely on gauge still works in your favor. Wide neckline, baggy body, easy stitches throughout. Pattern’s free, and it’s a forgiving first sweater.
Large statement granny squares in black, rust, and olive make up the body of this sweater, joined together and finished with cream borders that pull every color into a cohesive vintage-inspired palette. Fans of the construction will also want to look at the free patchwork long sleeve crochet top pattern for a scrappier take on the same joined-square approach.
Loose Off Shoulder Crochet Sweater
Four oversized granny squares form the front and back yoke panels, with solid black balloon sleeves attached at the sides to balance the busy colorwork. Cream ribbed cuffs and a matching hem band close out the silhouette with a neat contrast edge.
Materials & Tools
Big Twist Value yarn (worsted weight) or any comparable worsted weight yarn
- 2.5 skeins in your main color (sample: white)
- 2 skeins in your secondary color (sample: black)
- 1 skein in your accent color (sample: brown)
6 mm crochet hook (main)
- 4 mm crochet hook (for neckline finish)
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers or safety pins
Know This Stitch Before Start
Difficulty & Time
Beginner-friendly. Every skill you need — granny squares, slip-stitch joining, and back-loop ribbing — is straightforward and repetitive. The time investment comes from making 12 matching squares, not from complexity. A few dedicated sessions and you’ll have both panels ready before the assembly even begins.
The Pattern
Color Sequence for Each Square
Each square is 11 rows total, worked in this color order:
- Rows 1–3: white
- Rows 4–5: brown
- Rows 6–7: black
- Rows 8–11: white
Change color at the end of the last row in each block, cutting and attaching the new color as you go.
Part 1: Make the Granny Squares (Make 12)
Center ring:
- Make a slip knot.
- Chain 4.
- Slip stitch into the first chain to close into a ring.
Still getting the hang of reading crochet patterns? That’s completely okay, the video tutorial below breaks everything down in a simple, beginner-friendly way!
Row 1:
- Chain 3, then work 2 double crochets into the middle of the ring.
- Chain 2, then work 3 double crochets into the middle of the ring.
- Repeat (chain 2, 3 double crochets into the ring) two more times — 4 groups of double crochets total.
- Chain 2, slip stitch into the top of the beginning chain-3 to close the row.
Row 2 — work into the corner spaces:
- In the first corner space: chain 3, 2 double crochets into the same corner, chain 1.
- In each following corner space: 3 double crochets, chain 2, 3 double crochets, chain 1. Repeat in each corner.
- Chain 2, slip stitch into the first chain-3 made to close the row.
Rows 3–11 — repeat the granny pattern:
- In each corner space: 3 double crochets, chain 2, 3 double crochets, chain 1.
- In each side (non-corner) space: 3 double crochets, chain 1.
- Close each row: chain 2, slip stitch into the beginning chain-3.
Work through Row 11 following the color sequence above. Make 12 squares total. Before joining, make sure all squares are oriented the same way with the right side facing the same direction.
Part 2: Join Squares into Two Panels (6 squares each)
The squares are joined with a back-loop slip-stitch seam, which creates a decorative raised ridge on the right side.
- Hold 2 squares with right sides facing each other (wrong sides facing out).
- Attach yarn at the corner. Tip: slip stitch through both loops of both squares at each corner first — it anchors the corners more neatly before you move into the back-loop-only section.
- Slip stitch into the back loops only of both squares, working all the way across the joining edge.
- Slip stitch through the last corner, then pick up 2 more squares and repeat, building the panel out.
- Continue until 6 squares are joined into the first panel. Repeat to make the second panel.
Each finished panel is a 6-square block — one for the front and one for the back.
Part 3: Assembling the Sweater
Place the two panels with right sides together. Use the same back-loop slip-stitch method throughout.
Top / shoulder seams (neck opening):
- Seam the upper outer squares together on each side to form the shoulders.
- Leave the middle top squares unjoined — this gap becomes the head and neck opening.
Bottom / side seams (arm openings):
- Turn the work and seam up the lower outer squares along both sides.
- Leave an opening on each side for the arms — these become your armholes.
- Cut and knot your ends after each seam. Repeat on the other side.
Finishing the body:
- Slip stitch any remaining openings closed to finish the seams as needed.
- Weave in and knot all remaining ends securely.
Part 4: Finishing
Neckline edge:
- Working around the head and neck opening with the 4 mm hook, single crochet or half double crochet into each stitch all the way around for a clean, tighter finish.
- Join, cut, and weave in the end.
Cuffs (work on both arm openings):
The cuffs are sideways ribbing worked in back loops only — the ridges run around the arm for a stretchy, snug look.
- Attach yarn at an arm opening and work one row of single crochet all the way around the opening. These single crochets become the foundation stitches for the cuff.
- Slip stitch, then chain 6 to start the cuff (this chain sets the cuff depth).
- Turn your work. Working in back loops only, work 5 single crochets across — this creates the ribbing look.
- Slip stitch into the next 2 foundation stitches along the arm edge to anchor the ridge.
- Chain 1, turn. Work 5 single crochets in back loops only across.
- Slip stitch into the next 2 foundation stitches.
- To ease around the curve as needed: periodically skip one foundation stitch, then work your 5 single crochets and slip stitch into the next 2 foundation stitches, to keep the cuff sitting flat.
- Repeat all the way around the arm opening.
- Once you’ve worked around completely, sew the cuff closed by joining the last ridge to the first with a whip stitch or slip stitch.
- Weave in ends. Repeat for the second arm opening.
Technique Notes (with tips woven in)
- Back-loop slip-stitch seaming is what holds all the joins together and gives the ridged, textured look on the outside. Keep your tension consistent and slightly loose — tight slip stitches are hard to work into and can distort the square edges. Anchoring each corner through both loops before switching to back loops only is a small step that makes the corners dramatically neater.
- The sideways cuff ribbing is worked perpendicular to the arm edge, not in rounds. The direction of your rows is what creates those vertical-looking ridges. If the cuff starts to ruffle or pull in, you may need to ease more — skip a foundation stitch a little more frequently until it sits flat. Every arm opening is slightly different depending on your tension, so ease by feel rather than by a fixed count.
- Orienting all 12 squares the same way before joining is easy to overlook but worth a minute of time. Granny squares with a directional color sequence can end up looking mismatched if a few get rotated before joining.
Yarn Substitution
The sample uses a Big Twist Value worsted, which is an affordable, easy-care acrylic — great for a first garment because it’s forgiving, washable, and widely available. Any smooth worsted weight will work here. A cotton or cotton blend gives more breathability and drape for a softer, looser hang. Avoid very chunky or bulky yarn — with a 6 mm hook and 11 rounds per square, going up in weight will produce squares that are much larger than intended and a sweater that fits very differently.
FAQ
- Does the square count really matter? The title says 20 squares. The on-screen instructions in the source tutorial call for 12 squares (two panels of 6), which is what this pattern follows. The title appears to be an error in the original video.
- How do I make the sweater bigger or smaller? The simplest adjustment is to change your square size — add or remove rounds per square, or go up or down in hook and yarn weight. Changing from 11 rounds to 9 rounds per square produces a noticeably smaller garment, while going to 13 rounds makes it larger. Keep all 12 squares the same size regardless.
- Can I use a single color instead of three? Absolutely. A single-color version is simpler and still looks great — the raised ridge seams give it all the texture it needs. You could also use just two colors (skipping the accent brown) for a cleaner two-tone look.
