This one trades the honeycomb lattice of some mesh dresses for a tighter, smaller grid, so the fabric sits closer to the body with less give in the holes themselves. It’s cut short too — a fitted mini length with cap sleeves and a drawstring waist, instead of the ankle-length, sleeveless shape used elsewhere on the site. For that longer, more open silhouette instead, the plus-size mesh dress uses the wider honeycomb lattice in a full-length cut.
Crochet Swimwear Outfit
The holes stay small and even throughout, so tension is a little more forgiving here than on a wider-holed mesh. The drawstring waist is worked as a separate cord rather than built into the rows, making it easy to adjust the fit without touching the main pattern. For a similar cover-up with a fringed hem instead of a tie waist, the mesh fringe skirt dress is worth a look.
Materials
- Light yarn doubled together
- 4.0 mm crochet hook
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
Stitch Used to Create This Design
Why doubled yarn matters
- Using two strands held together adds structure and opacity, which is important for swimwear-style garments.
- Keep your tension steady so both strands behave as one yarn throughout the project.
Front Panel
- Create a slipknot and make a foundation chain approximately 19 inches long for a standard size or about 22 inches for a larger size
- Double crochet into the 5th chain from the hook
- Chain 1, skip 1 chain, double crochet into the next chain
- Repeat the mesh pattern across the row
- Chain 4 and turn
- Double crochet on top of the previous row’s double crochet
- Chain 1, skip the space, double crochet into the next double crochet
- Repeat this pattern for a total of 40 rows
- New to crochet and not sure how to read a pattern yet? The video tutorial below will guide you through it step by step, you’ve got this!
Stitch clarity for the mesh pattern
- Each row is anchored by placing your double crochet into the top of the double crochet from the previous row, not into chain spaces.
- The chain 4 at the start of each row provides height and spacing. Treat it consistently so your edges stay straight.
- Count rows as you go. Mesh patterns can visually blur together, and it’s easy to add or miss a row without noticing.
Neckline Shaping
- Find the center of the front panel and mark it with a stitch marker
- Work the mesh pattern until you are two stitches away from the marker on the right side
- Make a decrease stitch at the neckline edge
- Continue decreasing at the neckline edge for 8 rows
- After completing the decreases, work 4 regular mesh rows without decreases to finish the shoulder
- Attach yarn at the center marker for the left side
- Repeat the same 8 decrease rows followed by 4 regular rows to mirror the right side
Understanding the shaping
- The neckline is formed gradually, not abruptly. The repeated decreases soften the curve and prevent sharp angles.
- Always decrease at the neckline edge only. The outer edge of each shoulder should remain straight.
- Mirroring the left side is essential. Count rows carefully so both shoulders finish at the same height.
Back Panel
- Create a foundation chain the same length as the front panel
- Work the mesh pattern evenly without shaping
- Continue until you reach a total of 52 rows
Why the back is longer
- The extra rows in the back panel balance the neckline shaping in the front and improve how the garment sits on the body.
- Even though the back is unshaped, matching stitch tension is important so the panels align cleanly during assembly.
Assembly and Finishing
- Place the front and back panels together with wrong sides facing out
- Join the shoulders using slip stitches
- Slip stitch along both sides of the dress, leaving armholes open
- Attach yarn at one armhole
- Chain 4 and work the mesh pattern evenly around the armhole in rounds
- Complete 5 rounds for each sleeve and close each round with a slip stitch
- Work single crochet stitches evenly around the neckline for a clean finish
- Place two single crochets in each mesh space and one single crochet at the V point
- Fasten off and weave in all ends securely
Finishing notes
- Joining with wrong sides facing out keeps the seam clean on the outside once the garment is turned.
- When working the armholes in rounds, maintain the same mesh rhythm you used for the panels to keep the sleeves visually consistent.
- At the neckline, placing one single crochet at the V point prevents puckering and helps the edge lie flat.
Fit and Sizing Guidance
- Width is controlled by your starting chain length. If you want a looser fit, add length to the foundation chain before beginning the front panel.
- Length is adjustable by adding or removing rows before neckline shaping or on the back panel, as long as shoulder heights remain matched.
- Try the panels against your body before assembly to check coverage and drape.
Beginner Notes
- Use stitch markers generously, especially at the neckline center and shoulder edges.
- Keep your chain stitches relaxed. Tight chains can distort the mesh and affect fit.
- If your edges start to curve, check that you are placing double crochets into stitches, not chain spaces.
Troubleshooting
- Uneven mesh: Check that your chain 1 spaces are consistent and not tightening over time.
- Neckline pulling inward: You may be decreasing too aggressively or missing regular mesh rows after shaping.
- Panels not lining up: Recount rows before assembly and block lightly if needed.
Final Thoughts
- This design rewards careful counting and even tension.
- Take your time with the shaping and finishing, and you’ll end up with a balanced, wearable crochet swimwear outfit that feels intentional and well-constructed rather than rushed.
