Herringbone texture across the whole body gives this crochet wrap around sweater pattern free its look without a single colour change. The stitch pulls tighter than plain rows, so buy more yarn than the yardage suggests and swatch before you start.
The crossover wrap front on this cornflower blue sweater gives it a distinctly elegant silhouette that is much simpler to construct than it looks from the finished photo. Wide ribbed cuffs and a snug ribbed hem anchor the wrap front beautifully, and anyone who enjoyed making the crochet pullover pattern will recognize the same satisfying BLO rib rhythm running through the body here.
Crochet Wrap Around Sweater
The sweater is worked in separate panels that come together with minimal seaming, and the wrap front is shaped with straightforward diagonal rows rather than any complex construction. The result is a cozy, wearable layering piece that works across a wide range of sizes and looks polished enough to wear well beyond a casual setting.
Materials and Tools
- A 5.0 mm hook for the cuffs and ribbing
- A 5.5 mm hook for the sleeve body and bodice
- Yarn of your choice
- Scissors
- Yarn needle for weaving ends
Beginner-Friendly Stitch
The Stitches and Techniques (with tips as you go)
- Single crochet with ribbing edges: On every ribbing row, the very first and very last stitch are worked through both loops — the 18 stitches in between are back-loop-only. This combination makes the middle stretchy while keeping the edges firm. Tip: if your ribbing is twisting or curling at the edges, check that you’re consistently working both loops on those two edge stitches.
- Herringbone double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over and pull a loop through both the stitch and the first loop on the hook, yarn over and pull through one loop, yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops. The pull-through-two-at-once motion is what creates the diagonal interlocked look. Tip: the 5.5 mm hook in the herringbone sections is deliberate — using the larger hook gives the herringbone fabric its plush, drapey body. Don’t skip the hook switch.
- The balloon sleeve increase row: The first row off the cuff transition uses alternating increases (2 herringbone stitches into one space, then 1 herringbone into the next) to jump from 40 stitches to 60 in one pass. The 16 straight rows that follow are worked evenly at 60 stitches — no further increases until the bodice section. Tip: count your stitches at the end of the first increase row to confirm you’ve hit 60 before continuing.
- The twisted single crochet edging: On the neckline edge, insert the hook under both loops, pull up a loose loop, twist the hook a full 360 degrees, yarn over, and pull through both loops. The key is keeping the loop loose before twisting — a too-tight loop produces a twisted stitch that’s impossible to complete. Tip: practise this stitch on a few spare chains first — the motion is unfamiliar but becomes fast once you understand the loose-loop-then-twist sequence.
- Seaming 12 rows past the sleeve into the armpit: When closing the underarm seam, you continue past the sleeve itself and seam approximately 12 more rows into the bodice section. This extra seaming is what creates the subtle batwing effect under the arm rather than leaving the full sleeve width open.
- Joining body halves right-sides-out: Unlike most seaming, where you work inside-out for a hidden join, the two body halves are laid right-sides-out (facing you) when joined. This is intentional — the single crochet seam becomes a visible, decorative edge line on the outside of the sweater.
- The attached-as-you-go waistband: The waistband is not a separate strip sewn on afterward. It’s built in perpendicular rows (chain 25 off the waist edge, single crochet back down, then 2 slip stitches into the waist body to anchor) and the two ends of the band are finally seamed together at the very end inside-out.
The Pattern
Step 1: The Cuffs (Make 2) — 5.0 mm hook
- Make a slip knot and chain 20 plus 1 turning chain (21 chains total).
- Row 1: Skip the first chain. Place 1 single crochet into the second chain from the hook and into every chain across. (20 single crochets total.)
- Row 2 (ribbing): Chain 1 and turn. Work 1 normal single crochet through both loops of the very first stitch. Work 1 single crochet back-loop-only for the next 18 stitches. Work 1 normal single crochet through both loops of the final stitch.
- Rows 3–40: Repeat Row 2 until you have 40 rows total, or until the cuff fits comfortably around your wrist.
Step 2: Transition to the Sleeve — Switch to 5.5 mm hook
- Chain 1 and turn the work horizontally to crochet along the long top edge of the ribbed cuff.
- Place 1 single crochet into the top edge of each ribbing row across. (40 single crochets total.)
- Switch to the 5.5 mm hook now.
Step 3: The Balloon Sleeve — 5.5 mm hook
- Row 1 (increase row): Chain 2 and turn. Skip the two chains. Work 2 herringbone double crochets into the very first stitch. Work 1 herringbone stitch into the next stitch. Alternate — 2 stitches into one space, 1 stitch into the next — all the way across. (60 stitches total at the end of this row.)
- Rows 2–16: Chain 2 and turn. Work 1 herringbone stitch into every stitch across with no increases. Repeat for 15 more rows (16 rows in this section total).
Step 4: Shape the Bodice — Continuous increases
- Row 1: Chain 2 and turn. Work 2 herringbone stitches into the very first stitch (an increase). Work 1 herringbone stitch into each subsequent stitch until the final space. Work 2 herringbone stitches into the very last stitch.
- Subsequent rows: Repeat this exact sequence — always increasing by placing 2 herringbone stitches at the absolute start and absolute end of every row.
- Continue for 42 rows total. (When folded in half, this complete panel spans from the cuff, up the sleeve, and forms one large side of the wrap bodice.)
Don’t let crochet patterns intimidate you! If you’re a beginner, the video tutorial below makes it super easy to follow along!
Step 5: The Neckline Edging (Optional)
- Along the open diagonal edge that will form the front wrap neckline, chain 1, turn, and work 1 normal single crochet in every stitch all the way across.
- Chain 1 and turn. Work a row of twisted single crochet: insert hook under both loops, pull up a loose loop (keep it loose), twist the hook a full 360 degrees, yarn over, and pull through both loops. Repeat to the end, chain 1, and cut a long tail to weave in.
Make a second identical panel and add the same edging.
Step 6: Seam the Underarms
- Fold the sleeve section in half with the wrong side facing out so the seams will sit on the inside.
- Align the 20 stitches of the cuff. Attach yarn, chain 1, and single crochet the cuff edges together stitch-by-stitch (20 single crochets total).
- Continue seaming up the straight underside of the sleeve, working approximately 3 single crochets per every 2 rows of herringbone fabric to keep the seam flat.
- Continue seaming slightly past the sleeve into the armpit area (approximately 12 more rows joined) to create a subtle batwing effect. Chain 2, knot, and cut.
Step 7: Join the Two Body Halves
- Lay both completed panels on top of each other with the right sides facing outward this time.
- Line up the front and back panel edges. Attach yarn at the outer edge of the underarm seam.
- Work single crochet stitches evenly through both layers down the sides to join the front and back wrap panels together.
- When you loop back to the starting point, join with a slip stitch.
Step 8: The Waistband Ribbing
- From the joining stitch at the bottom waist, chain 25 plus 1 turning chain.
- Work single crochets back down the chain toward the body. Slip stitch into the next single crochet along the waistline edge to attach it to the sweater body. Slip stitch into the following stitch to set up the next row.
- Turn your work, skip the two slip stitches, and work single crochet back-loop-only back up the waistband.
- Repeat this back-and-forth join process all the way around the waist circumference.
- Once completely around, turn the sweater inside out and use slip stitches to seam the two ends of the waistband together cleanly.
Final Touches
- Flip the sweater right-side out and weave in all loose ends.
- If the deep front V-neck feels loose or wide on your shoulders, sew a tiny hidden stitch at the base of the V crossover to lock it in place.
Yarn Substitution
The two-hook system (5.0 mm for ribbing, 5.5 mm for herringbone) is what separates the tighter cuff texture from the plush, drapey body — so match your yarn weight to whichever pairing gives the right feel on both hooks. A smooth worsted or chunky yarn shows the herringbone diagonal most clearly; a soft DK on these hooks gives a lighter, airier result. Whatever you choose, swatch both sections because the cuff and sleeve will feel noticeably different from each other by design.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Why does the seam continue 12 rows past the sleeve into the bodice? Those extra 12 seamed rows close a portion of the bodice underneath the arm, which is what creates the subtle batwing silhouette. Without them, the full width of the bodice panel would be open at the underarm and the sweater would drape more like a cape. The exact number of rows you seam here adjusts how pronounced the batwing effect is.
2. Why are the body halves joined right-sides-out rather than inside-out? The single crochet seam that joins the two body panels is intended to be visible — it becomes a decorative raised line on the outside of the sweater rather than a hidden interior seam. If you were to join them inside-out and flip right-side-out afterward, the decorative seam line would face inward instead of outward.
3. What does the optional hidden stitch at the V-crossover actually do? The two wrap panels cross over each other at the front of the neckline to form the deep V. Without a securing stitch, the crossing point can shift outward on the shoulder over time, especially with drapey herringbone fabric. Sewing a small, hidden connecting stitch at the base of the V holds the crossover in place permanently and prevents the neckline from splaying open during wear.
