Sink into this slouchy crochet sweater—the kind of soft, oversized layer you’ll reach for every cool morning. The relaxed drape and dropped shoulders give it that lived-in, effortless look, whether you’re pairing it with jeans, leggings, or pyjama bottoms on a slow Sunday. This free slouchy sweater crochet pattern keeps the stitches simple, so it’s an easy, satisfying make even if you’re still building confidence with garments. Cozy season starts here and click through for the free pattern.
A slouchy sweater that actually looks like knitwear is one of those makes that surprises people, because the ribbed texture reads more like a store-bought knit than anything they expect from a crochet hook. The whole body is worked flat in panels and seamed, which keeps the stitch count simple and makes it easy to adjust the width before you commit, much like the approach in this relaxed oversized top. One skein of chunky yarn and an afternoon is genuinely enough to get through a full panel.
Slouchy Crochet Sweater
The wide sleeves taper at the cuff with a simple ribbed band that pulls the whole look together without any complicated shaping. If you have ever done half double crochet you already know the stitch used throughout and the step by step tutorial walks through every seam join so nothing is left to guess.
Materials and Tools
- 100% acrylic yarn from Paintbox Yarns (100 grams per skein, approximately 184 meters per skein)
- A 10 mm crochet hook
- Stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
Stitch Worth Knowing
Quick Facts
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Size in tutorial: Small
- Hook: 10 mm
- Construction: Worked side-to-side, using back loop only stitches throughout for the ribbed effect
- Estimated time: A weekend make — the chunky hook and repetitive rows move quickly once you settle into the rhythm
Customization Ideas (Before You Begin)
Since this sweater is built to measurements and worked in simple panels, it’s easy to make it your own before you even pick up your hook:
- Adjust the length of the ribbing panels. More rows make a wider, more oversized body; fewer make a closer fit.
- Lengthen or shorten the sleeves. Add or remove rows on the sleeve panels to suit the wearer’s arm length.
- Change the collar height. Work a taller collar for a dramatic cowl fold, or keep it low for a simple mock neck.
- Go bold with color. Try a contrast color for the sleeves or collar, or work stripes into the panels for a color-block effect.
- Play with drape. A softer, drapier yarn exaggerates the slouch, while a firmer yarn gives more structure.
A Quick Note on the Stitches
Two techniques carry this whole sweater, so it’s worth knowing them before you start:
- Back loop only (BLO): After the foundation, every stitch is worked into the back loop of the stitch below. This is what produces the deep, stretchy ribs.
- Closed half double crochet (closed HDC): Yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull up a loop — then immediately pull that same loop through the remaining two loops on your hook. It makes a tidy, dense stitch that keeps the ribbing crisp.
The Pattern
The sweater is made from a back panel, a front panel with a shaped neckline, and two sleeves, all worked side-to-side. The pieces are seamed together, then a high collar is added directly around the neck. Apart from the foundation chains, every stitch is worked in the back loop only.
Back Panel
- Foundation: Chain 55.
- Row 1: Skip the first chain from the hook. Work 1 slip stitch into each of the next 7 chains (7 slip stitches total — place a marker on the first of these to help track it). Then work a closed half double crochet into each remaining chain across to the end of the row (47 closed half double crochet). This gives 54 stitches total.
- Row 2: Chain 1 and turn. Skip the first chain. Working in the back loop only, crochet 47 closed half double crochet until you reach the marker. Move the marker up. Then work 7 slip stitches in the back loop only to the end of the row.
- Row 3: Chain 1 and turn. Skip the first chain. Work 7 slip stitches in the back loop only, then work 47 closed half double crochet in the back loop only to the end of the row.
- Rows 4–56: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until you have completed 56 rows in total, which creates 29 visible ribbing ridges.
Front Panel (with Curved Neckline)
Foundation and Shoulder 1 (Rows 1–18)
- Chain 55. Repeat the exact same pattern as the back panel — 7 slip stitches, then 47 closed half double crochet — for 18 rows (9 ribbing ridges). The 18th row must end on the slip stitch side.
Just starting out with crochet? The video tutorial below is a great place to begin, or challenge yourself with the written pattern below!
Neckline Decreases (Rows 19–30)
- Row 19: Chain 1 and turn. Work 7 back-loop-only slip stitches, then 46 back-loop-only closed half double crochet, leaving the very last stitch unworked (1 stitch decreased).
- Row 20: Chain 1 and turn. Work 46 back-loop-only closed half double crochet, then 7 back-loop-only slip stitches.
- Rows 21–30: Repeat this decrease pattern 5 more times, decreasing 1 closed half double crochet every 2 rows. You will end with 30 total rows.
Neckline Increases (Rows 31–42)
- Row 31: Work 7 back-loop-only slip stitches, then 41 back-loop-only closed half double crochet to the end of the row. At the end, chain 2 and turn.
- Row 32: Skip the first chain and work 1 closed half double crochet into the 2nd chain from the hook (this is your increase). Continue with 41 back-loop-only closed half double crochet (42 total), then 7 back-loop-only slip stitches.
- Rows 33–42: Repeat this increase sequence until you have added back all 6 decreased stitches and are back to 47 closed half double crochet.
Shoulder 2 (Rows 43–59)
- Work 17 more rows matching the standard pattern — 7 slip stitches, then 47 closed half double crochet — to finish the second shoulder (9 ribbing ridges). Add 1 extra row to bring the yarn to the top right corner for sewing. This gives 59 rows total.
Sleeves (Make 2)
- Foundation: Chain 63.
- Row 1: Skip the first chain. Work 7 slip stitches, followed by 55 closed half double crochet to the end of the row.
- Row 2: Chain 1 and turn. Work 55 back-loop-only closed half double crochet, followed by 7 back-loop-only slip stitches.
- Row 3: Chain 1 and turn. Work 7 back-loop-only slip stitches, followed by 55 back-loop-only closed half double crochet.
- Rows 4–40: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 back and forth for a total of 40 rows. Leave a long tail of yarn for sewing and cut.
Assembly and Sewing
- Sleeves: Fold each sleeve panel lengthwise down the middle. Using a tapestry needle, sew the long edges together with a simple whip stitch or mattress stitch.
- Body panels: Lay the front and back panels together. Sew the top shoulder seams together, aligning the 9 ribbing patterns on each shoulder side. Sew the sides closed, leaving a spacious opening at the top of each side for the armholes.
- Attach sleeves: Sew the prepared sleeve tubes into the armhole openings of the body.
High-Collar Neckline
- Row 1: Attach your yarn to the center-back of the neckline. Chain 12, plus 1 turning chain. Skip the first chain and work 12 slip stitches back down toward the neckline base.
- Connect to the collar: Secure the row to the neckline edge by inserting your hook into the space between the body’s ribbing ridges and completing a slip stitch. Turn your work.
- Row 2: Skip the connecting slip stitch. Work 12 back-loop-only slip stitches back up the collar.
- Row 3: Chain 1 and turn. Work 12 back-loop-only slip stitches back down toward the neckline base. Attach it to the next ribbing ridge space on the neck opening with a slip stitch.
- Repeat: Continue this process all the way around the neckline. Once you return to the start, cut your yarn leaving a long tail, sew the first and last rows of the collar together to close the loop, then fold the collar in half inward and sew down the interior edge for a clean, finished look.
Tips and Troubleshooting
- Track your ridges, not just your rows. The ribs are the easiest way to check your progress — the pattern tells you exactly how many ridges each section should have, so count ridges if you lose your place in the row count.
- Keep your foundation chain loose. With a chunky 10 mm hook, a tight foundation can pull the whole edge in. Chain with an even, relaxed tension so the panels lie flat.
- Watch the “which side” cues. Whether a row ends on the slip stitch side matters for the shaping and seaming, so pay attention to those notes — especially at Row 18 of the front panel.
Yarn Substitution
The pattern uses a worsted-to-aran weight acrylic on a 10 mm hook, which gives the fabric its cozy, slightly airy drape. If you swap yarns, aim for something you can comfortably hold at a chunkier gauge, since the oversized hook is doing a lot of the work to create that soft slouch. A wool or wool-blend will give you more warmth and body, while a very smooth acrylic keeps things lightweight and budget-friendly. Whatever you pick, make a small ribbed swatch first and check that the fabric drapes rather than stiffens.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Why is the sweater worked sideways? Working side-to-side runs the ribs vertically down the body, which gives the sweater its stretch and that flattering slouchy drape. It also means you’re building the ribbing as you go, rather than adding it separately.
- What does “closed” half double crochet do? Pulling the loop through both remaining loops in one motion closes the top of the stitch, making it neater and denser than a standard half double crochet. It keeps the ribbing crisp and defined.
- How do I make it larger or smaller? The panel width comes from your foundation chain length, and the body width comes from the number of rows. Add rows for a wider, more oversized fit or remove them for a closer one, keeping the front and back panels matched.
- My collar is twisting or puckering. What went wrong? This usually comes from attaching the collar rows unevenly around the neckline. Space your connecting slip stitches consistently between the ribbing ridges, and don’t pull them too tight, so the collar sits flat before you fold it.
