The iris stitch looks like something complicated those paired clusters sitting symmetrically around a center chain space, row after row building into a fabric that has real elegance to it. The good news is that it is not complicated at all. Once you understand what dc2tog means and where to place your hook, the stitch becomes one of the most satisfying repeats in crochet.
Crochet Iris Stitch
Every row is the same after the first, and each one locks into the previous like a puzzle piece. This tutorial walks you through the technique from the very beginning, including the dc2tog stitch itself, so you can work confidently even if this is your first time seeing it.
Materials and Tools
- DK weight yarn (Category 3)
- 4.0 mm crochet hook
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
DK weight on a 4.0 mm hook gives the iris stitch good structure without being stiff. The fabric will have a gentle drape and the lacy openwork will read clearly.
Abbreviations
- ch — chain
- sc — single crochet
- dc — double crochet
- dc2tog — double crochet 2 together
- st — stitch
- sp — space
Beginner Technique Notes
What is dc2tog?
dc2tog (double crochet 2 together) is a decrease stitch, but in the iris stitch it is used decoratively — two double crochets that share a top, creating a V-shape that points downward. Here is how to work it:
- Yarn over. Insert your hook into the stitch or space.
- Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops. (You now have 2 loops on your hook.)
- Yarn over. Insert your hook into the same stitch or space.
- Yarn over, pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops. (You now have 3 loops on your hook.)
- Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops to close.
- Don’t let crochet patterns intimidate you! If you’re a beginner, the video tutorial below makes it super easy to follow along!
The result is two double crochets joined at the top into a single stitch. In the iris stitch, you work dc2tog, ch1, dc2tog all into the same space — that trio is the complete iris cluster.
What does an iris cluster look like?
Each iris stitch is: dc2tog + chain 1 + dc2tog, all worked into the same chain or space. The two dc2tog lean toward each other with the chain space between them, forming a small petal or wing shape. That chain-1 space in the center is where you will work the next row’s cluster.
Finding the ch-1 space
In every row after Row 1, your anchor point is the chain-1 space sitting in the center of each iris cluster from the row below. Look for the small gap between the two dc2tog. Insert your hook into that gap — not into a stitch — and work the new cluster there. This is the only placement that matters throughout the pattern.
The Pattern
Foundation Chain
- Chain 25.
Row 1
- Skip the first 4 chains from the hook.
- In the 5th chain from the hook, work dc2tog.
- Chain 1.
- Work another dc2tog into the same chain.
- Skip 2 chains.
- Work dc2tog, chain 1, dc2tog into the next chain.
- Repeat across the row.
- Continue working clusters until 2 chains remain.
- Skip 1 chain.
- Double crochet in the final chain.
- Turn.
Row 1 is the most involved row because you are working into foundation chains rather than defined spaces. Take your time locating the correct chain before each cluster. Once this row is done, every row that follows uses the same simple sequence.
Row 2
- Chain 2 and turn.
- Locate the first chain-1 space in the center of the first iris cluster.
- Work dc2tog, chain 1, dc2tog into that chain-1 space.
- Move to the next chain-1 space.
- Work dc2tog, chain 1, dc2tog into the space.
- Repeat across the row, working one iris cluster into each chain-1 space.
- Double crochet into the top of the turning chain from the previous row.
- Turn.
Rows 3 through 11
Each of these rows is worked the same way:
- Chain 2 and turn.
- Work dc2tog, chain 1, dc2tog into each chain-1 space across the row.
- Double crochet into the top of the turning chain.
- Turn.
Repeat this for Rows 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, and 10.
After Row 11, fasten off if you are adding the optional border.
Optional Single Crochet Border
A single crochet border tidies all four edges and gives the swatch or project a finished frame.
Join yarn at any point along the top edge.
Top edge:
- Work 1 sc into each stitch across.
- Work 1 sc into each chain-1 space.
Corners:
- Work 3 sc into each corner space.
Side edges:
- Work evenly down the sides.
- Place 2 sc around the end of each row.
- For the 11-row sample, work approximately 23 sc along each side.
Bottom edge:
- Work into the foundation chain edge.
- Place 1 sc into each stitch.
- Place 1 sc into each base space as needed.
Invisible Join
- Cut the yarn and pull the tail through the final loop.
- Thread the yarn tail onto a yarn needle.
- Skip the first border stitch.
- Insert the needle under both loops of the second stitch from front to back.
- Insert the needle down through the center of the last stitch worked.
- Pull gently to create a seamless stitch appearance.
- Weave in all remaining ends securely.
Tips and Troubleshooting
- My clusters are not lining up between rows. You are most likely working into a stitch top rather than the chain-1 space. Look for the small open gap in the center of each cluster from the row below — that is your target. If it is hard to see, try lifting the fabric toward a light source or using a stitch marker to mark each space as you go.
- My turning chain is too tight or too loose. The chain-2 turning chain at the start of each row is not counted as a stitch — it just lifts the yarn to row height. Keep it relaxed. If it is too tight, the side edges will pull inward. If it is too loose, leave a visible gap.
- My foundation chain feels too long. The iris stitch compresses the chain slightly as you work Row 1. This is normal. The chain-25 foundation is a sample size — if you are making a wider project, chain your desired multiple and do not be alarmed when the row feels shorter than expected.
- The invisible join is not looking seamless. Pull very gently — the join tightens quickly and a small amount of pressure is usually all it needs. Threading through both loops of the second stitch is what creates the illusion of an extra stitch, so make sure you are catching both strands.
FAQ
1. What is dc2tog and is it hard to learn? dc2tog stands for double crochet 2 together. It joins two double crochets at the top into a single stitch. It sounds more complicated than it is — the step-by-step instructions in the technique notes above walk you through it completely, and after a few tries it becomes automatic. It is the only new stitch in this pattern.
2. Can I use a different yarn weight? Yes. The pattern works across weights, but your results will change. Worsted weight makes a chunkier, more open version — great for blankets. Fingering weight produces a finer, lacier result. Whatever you use, match your hook to the yarn’s label recommendation for best results.
3. What can I make with the iris stitch? Dishcloths and swatches are ideal for learning the stitch, but the iris pattern scales well to scarves, baby blankets, shawlettes, and bag panels. Once you are comfortable with the repeat you can chain any multiple that suits your project and simply continue until the piece is the right size.
4. Why do I chain 2 at the start of each row instead of chain 3? In the iris stitch, the turning chain is not counted as a double crochet — it simply raises the yarn to working height. Chain 2 is enough for that purpose here. Chaining 3 would add an unintended extra stitch at the edge of each row and make the sides uneven.
5. Do I have to add the border? No — the border is optional. The iris stitch fabric has clean enough edges to leave unbordered, especially for swatches and practice pieces. The single crochet border is a nice finishing touch for gift items or projects where a neat edge matters, but the pattern is complete without it.
