A free crochet pullover worked in one piece, so there’s nothing to seam when you’re done. Half double crochet through the back loop the whole way, which gives it that ribbed knit look without the fuss. Good one if seaming is the part that puts you off garments. Pattern’s written out start to finish.
Rich burgundy yarn and a deep vertical rib make this crochet cardigan one of those pieces that reads as far more complex than it actually is to make. The oversized fit and puffed sleeves give it a cozy, fashion-forward feel that layers beautifully over dresses or fitted tops, and crocheters who enjoyed the relaxed construction of the slouchy oversized crochet sweater will find a lot to like here too.
Crochet Pullover
The ribbed body panels are worked flat and seamed, with the sleeve shaping built in as you go rather than set in separately. That makes the construction straightforward to follow even if this is your first time making a full-length cardigan.
Materials and Tools
- 4-ply yarn with a slightly fuzzy texture
- A 6.0 mm hook for the main body
- A 4.5 mm hook for the ribbing (cuffs, front border, and buttonholes)
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
- Buttons
Key Stitch to Learn
Difficulty and Time
This is a relaxed beginner-to-intermediate project. Half double crochet in the back loops only is one of the most soothing stitches in crochet once you settle into it — it’s just finding the back loop and working your stitch, over and over, until the panel reaches its target length. The one part that takes focus is the armhole chain transition at Rows 28 and 86, which needs careful counting. The cuff ribbing and button band use post stitches, which beginners should read about before starting. Everything else is essentially one stitch repeat for a long, pleasant stretch of rows.
Beginner Technique Notes
Three techniques carry this whole cardigan:
- Half double crochet in the back loops only (HDC BLO): Every stitch in the main body is worked into just the back loop of the stitch below — the loop farther from you. This leaves the front loops as raised ridges, creating the characteristic stretchy ribbed texture. Always chain 1 and turn at the end of every row.
- Armhole chaining: Instead of leaving separate sleeves and seaming them in, the armhole openings are created mid-row by chaining across the gap (42 chains plus 2 for turning) and then continuing immediately down the back of the body. This is what makes the body a single continuous piece.
- Post-stitch ribbing (FPDC / BPDC): Used only on the cuffs and front border — not on the body. Front post double crochet wraps around the post of the stitch below from the front; back post double crochet wraps from the back. Alternating them creates the stretchy ribbing at the edges.
The Pattern
The cardigan starts with both sleeves, then builds the entire body as one continuous piece (front panel to back panel to second front panel), and finishes with ribbed cuffs, sleeve attachment, and a button band.
The Sleeves (Make 2)
Using the 6.0 mm hook:
- Foundation: Make a slip knot and chain 50.
- Row 1: Skip the first 2 chains from the hook. Work 1 half double crochet into each chain across. (50 half double crochet.) Chain 1 and turn.
- Row 2 onwards: Work half double crochet in the back loops only into every stitch across. Chain 1 and turn.
- Repeat until you have completed 42 rows total (measuring roughly 15 inches long by 19 inches wide).
- Place a stitch marker in the 21st row to mark the exact middle of the sleeve.
- Set aside and make the second sleeve the same way.
The First Front Panel
- Foundation: Chain 80.
- Row 1: Skip 2 chains and work a regular half double crochet into each chain across. (80 stitches.) Chain 1 and turn.
- Rows 2–27: Work half double crochet in the back loops only across every row. By Row 27, the panel should measure roughly 25 inches long and 11.5 to 12 inches wide.
- Sleeve marker: On the final front panel row, count up 38 stitches from the bottom and place a stitch marker. The remaining 42 stitches at the top create the armhole opening where the sleeve will attach.
Reading crochet patterns can be tricky when you’re just starting out, feel free to follow the video tutorial below instead!
Transition to the Back Panel
- Row 28 (splitting row): Work half double crochet in the back loops only in the first 38 stitches until you hit your stitch marker. Chain 42 right off the edge to replace the armhole space. Add 2 extra chains to turn.
- Row 29: Skip 2 chains, work half double crochet across your 42 chains, then continue working half double crochet in the back loops only down the remaining 38 body stitches.
- Rows 30–85: Work half double crochet in the back loops only across all 80 stitches for 56 rows to complete the back panel width.
The Second Front Panel
- Row 86 (second armhole): Work half double crochet in the back loops only across the first 38 stitches. Chain 42 to create the second armhole gap, then turn.
- Rows 87–113: Re-establish the 80 stitches across the chains and work half double crochet in the back loops only for another 27 rows to match the first front panel. Fasten off.
Assembly and Shoulder Seams
- Lay the cardigan body flat with the right sides facing up, then fold the front panels inward.
- Align the top edges of the front panels with the back panel shoulders.
- Use a slip stitch or a darning needle to sew the shoulder seams together securely.
Sleeve Ribbing and Attaching the Sleeves
Sleeve cuff ribbing — switch to the 4.5 mm hook:
- Attach yarn to the bottom edge of a sleeve.
- Base row: Work 1 single crochet into the first two row-ends, then single crochet two together across the 3rd and 4th row-ends to decrease. Repeat this pattern around the cuff to gather it down to 33 stitches.
- Row 2: Chain 3 (counts as a double crochet), and work 1 double crochet into every stitch around.
- Rows 3–6: Work alternating front post double crochet and back post double crochet to build the ribbed cuff. Work 5 rows of ribbing total.
Seam and set the sleeve:
- Fold the sleeve in half lengthwise and slip stitch the long edge closed.
- Turn the sleeve right-side out and insert it into the cardigan’s armhole opening.
- Match the sleeve’s 21st-row stitch marker to the shoulder seam.
- Slip stitch the sleeve to the armhole by matching 2 body stitches to 1 sleeve row-end all the way around.
- Repeat on the other side.
Front Panel Border and Buttonholes
Using the 4.5 mm hook:
- Join yarn to the bottom corner of one front panel.
- Row 1: Work 2 double crochets into every row-end space all the way up the front panel, around the back of the neck, and down the opposite front side.
- Buttonhole placement: Plan your button positions with stitch markers (placing them every 15 stitches).
- Row 2 (ribbing and openings): Work alternating front post double crochet and back post double crochet up the border. When you reach a buttonhole marker, chain 1 and skip 1 stitch, then resume the pattern in the following stitch.
- Row 3: Continue the ribbing normally, working a standard stitch into each chain-1 space to secure the buttonhole edges. Fasten off and sew your buttons on the opposite panel to align with the holes.
Tips and Troubleshooting
- Count carefully at the armhole transition rows. Rows 28 and 86 are the most critical rows in this pattern — the 42-chain armhole bridge must be exact to keep the body proportions correct. Count your chains before you turn, not after.
- Mark both the 21st sleeve row and the 38th body stitch. Two stitch markers — one in each sleeve and one on the final front panel row — are the precise anchor points that align the sleeve to the armhole correctly. Remove them only once the sleeve is fully sewn in.
- Keep the body rows loose. HDC BLO is naturally a tight stitch on its own — if your tension is firm, the cardigan will feel stiff rather than drapey. Work with a slightly relaxed hand, especially on the back panel where you’ll be working 56 rows at full 80-stitch width.
- Place the 2-DC-per-row-end front border consistently. Working 2 double crochets into every row-end space on the border row distributes the stitches evenly around the front opening. Vary the ratio and the border will either ripple or pull in.
- Sew buttons before weaving in ends. Laying both front panels flat and confirming the button and buttonhole placement is correct before finishing anything permanent saves a lot of unpicking.
Yarn Substitution
The pattern calls for a slightly fuzzy 4-ply yarn, which gives the back-loop ribbing a soft, halo-like quality while still holding its structure. Any 4-ply (fingering/sport weight) yarn works on the 6.0 mm body hook, though a larger hook relative to the yarn weight is what creates the drape rather than a dense fabric. A smooth 4-ply will show the ribbing more crisply; a fluffy or brushed 4-ply (like a mohair-blend) softens the texture further. Avoid very heavy yarns — the stitch counts and measurements here are calibrated for the 4-ply gauge.
Customization Ideas
- Adjust the width. The 80-stitch foundation sets the body width; a different stitch count (in any amount, since there’s no stitch multiple requirement) adjusts the size up or down.
- Lengthen or shorten the body. Rows 2–27 on the front panels set the body length — work more or fewer rows before the armhole transition for a longer or shorter cardigan.
- Change the sleeve length. The 42-row sleeve can be lengthened or shortened to suit your arm; just recount your 21st-row marker accordingly.
- Add more or fewer buttons. The buttonhole spacing at every 15 stitches is adjustable — mark your button placements based on your preferred number and the visible spacing will vary accordingly.
- Skip the fuzzy yarn. A crisp wool or acrylic 4-ply gives a clean-textured ribbed finish if you prefer the rib ridges to be visible rather than softened by halo.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Why does the body work as one continuous piece rather than separate front and back panels? Chaining across the armhole gap and continuing in the same direction means you never cut the yarn and start a new panel — the body front, back, and second front are all worked sequentially. The result is a piece with no side seams and only the shoulder seams to join, which makes assembly simpler and the fit more consistent.
2. What does “2 body stitches to 1 sleeve row-end” mean when attaching the sleeve? The sleeve was crocheted in rows running lengthwise (from cuff to top), so the row-ends (the short sides of the rows) are what you sew into the armhole. Because half double crochet rows are taller than the stitches themselves, one sleeve row-end is taller than one body stitch — so matching 2 body stitches to 1 sleeve row-end keeps the seam even without bunching or gaps.
3. Can I make this without buttons as an open-front drape cardigan? Yes. Skip Step 7 entirely or work only Row 1 (the double crochet base row) as a simple border and leave both front panels open. The front border ribbing and buttonholes are entirely optional from a construction standpoint.
4. Why is the ribbing on the cuffs and border worked with a smaller hook (4.5 mm) rather than the main 6.0 mm hook? The smaller hook creates a tighter, firmer ribbing that grips rather than drapes. Using the same large hook for the ribbing would make it as open and loose as the body fabric, which means the cuffs wouldn’t hold their shape and the front border wouldn’t lay flat against the body.
5. My armhole looks uneven after attaching the sleeve — what went wrong? The most common cause is the 21st-row sleeve marker not being aligned with the shoulder seam. When the midpoint of the sleeve sits even a few stitches off-center from the shoulder, the sleeve twists or one side hangs longer than the other. Confirm the marker sits exactly on the shoulder seam before you begin slip stitching.
