Ribbed vests have had a strong run in handmade fashion, and this deep red version earns its place, the V-neckline and oversized wooden buttons give it a vintage cardigan quality that layers well over just about anything. The ribbing runs vertically throughout, which means the fabric has natural stretch and the finished piece holds its shape without blocking drama. It’s a more covered-up take on the vest silhouette compared to something like the color block granny square vest, and the button-front construction makes it genuinely versatile.
Crochet Button Up Top Women
The body panels are worked in rows of ribbing stitch with V-neck decreases shaped into the front edges as you go, there’s no separate neckline finishing needed because the shaping is built in. The button band is picked up from the front edge and worked outward, keeping everything seamless along that center line. For another structured, sleeveless crochet top with careful shaping, the sleeveless top with collar takes a similar approach to edge finishing.
Materials
Yarn: Medium weight yarn (Aran weight / 10-ply).
Hook: 6.0 mm (US J-10) crochet hook (or size needed to obtain gauge).
Notions: Stitch markers, scissors, tapestry needle.
Hardware: Buttons (approximately 25 mm in diameter).
Sizing & Measurements
This pattern is written dynamically so you can easily customize the fit to your exact body measurements.
Length: Determined by your initial foundation chain (from underarm to your desired hemline).
Width: Determined by the number of row repeats executed across the front and back panels.
Pro-Tip: The Golden Rule of Ribbing
When working a slip stitch or half double crochet ribbing, it is incredibly easy to accidentally skip the very last stitch of the row, causing your edges to shrink. Always count your stitches at the end of every row, or place a stitch marker in the first and last stitch of the row to save yourself from pulling out your work later!
Quick Stitch Guide
Step-by-Step Pattern
1. Foundation and Underarm Section
Foundation: Make a slip knot and chain 26. (Note: Adjust this chain number if you want a longer or shorter top; ensure it reaches comfortably from your underarm to your desired hem).
Row 1: Half double crochet into the third chain from your hook and into every chain stitch across.
Row 2: Chain 1 and turn your work. Work a back loop only slip stitch into every stitch across the row.
Row 3 (Increase Row): Chain 2 and turn your work. Work a half double crochet into the back loops only of each stitch across until you reach the final stitch. Work two half double crochet stitches into the back loop of that final stitch to create an increase.
Row 4: Chain 1 and turn. Work a back loop only slip stitch into every stitch across.
Row 5–7: Repeat the alternating sequence of Row 3 and Row 4. Crucial: Only increase at the top edge during the half double crochet rows. Complete a total of 7 rows for this section.
- Don’t let crochet patterns intimidate you! If you’re a beginner, the video tutorial below makes it super easy to follow along!
2. Shoulder Section
Row 8 (Extension): At the end of Row 7, chain 27 (or chain an amount that perfectly matches the distance from your shoulder to your underarm).
Row 9: Skip the first chain from your hook. Working carefully down the chain and continuing straight across the body stitches, work a back loop only slip stitch. (Take extra care to ensure your foundation chain is not twisted).
Row 10–13: Continue the established ribbing pattern by alternating one row of back loop only half double crochet with one row of back loop only slip stitch. Work these 4 additional rows flat with no increases or decreases.
3. Front Right Panel Neckline Shaping
Row 14 (Decrease – Slip Stitch Row): Begin decreasing at the top edge to shape the V-neckline. To decrease on a slip stitch row, pull up a loop in the first back loop, pull up a loop in the second back loop, and pull the first loop through both loops on your hook (Slip Stitch Two Together).
Row 15 (Decrease – HDC Row): To decrease on a half double crochet row, work a half double crochet two together (hdc2tog) over the first two stitches of the row.
Row 16–24: Continue keeping to the ribbing pattern, decreasing exactly two stitches at the top edge of every row. Complete a total of 11 rows for the neckline shaping.
Fasten Off: Finish the final row at the bottom hem edge, cut your yarn, and set this panel aside.
Technique Explainer: How to HDC2TOG (Half Double Crochet 2 Together)
- Yarn over, insert your hook into the back loop of the first stitch.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
- Insert your hook into the back loop of the next stitch.
- Yarn over and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).
- Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops on your hook. You have successfully merged two stitches into one!
4. Back Panel
Underarm & Shoulder Sections: Repeat the exact instructions used for the underarm and shoulder sections of the Front Right Panel.
Body Rows: Continue straight in the alternating ribbing pattern with no neckline shaping for a total of 33 straight rows.
Opposite Underarm Shaping: From the top edge of the panel, count down 27 stitches and place a stitch marker. You will now begin decreasing at this point to mirror your initial underarm shaping (decreasing on rows where you previously increased).
Total Rows: Complete until your back panel reaches a grand total of 47 rows. Fasten off.
5. Front Left Panel
Row 1: To ensure your ribbing perfectly mirrors the right panel, begin this panel with a back loop only slip stitch row.
Underarm & Shoulder: Work the underarm section with your increases, then add the shoulder chain extension exactly as before.
Neckline Shaping: Mirror the right panel by decreasing two stitches at the top edge of every row until you have completed the exact same number of rows as the Front Right Panel. Fasten off.
6. Assembly and Neckline Trim
Seaming: Place your front panels and back panel together with the right sides facing each other. Using a tapestry needle and a mattress stitch (or your preferred seaming method), sew the shoulder seams and the side seams together. Turn right side out.
Neckline Trim Setup: Join your yarn at the bottom edge of the Front Right Panel.
Row 1–2: Evenly work slip stitches all the way up the right front edge, around the back neck, and down the left front panel. Use a general ratio of three slip stitches for every two rows of fabric edge.
Row 3 (Buttonhole Row): Continue in slip stitch ribbing. When you reach the desired placement for your buttons on the front panel, create buttonholes by chaining 2, skipping 2 stitches, and then continuing with your slip stitches.
Row 4–5: Work back loop only slip stitches around, working regular slip stitches into the chain-2 spaces of the previous row to solidify the buttonholes. Fasten off.
7. Armhole Trim
The Trim Strip: Create a completely separate strip for the armhole edging.
Row 1: Start with a V-shaped increase row.
Row 2–62: Work 63 rows of 5 stitches each in back loop only slip stitch ribbing.
Row 63: Finish the strip with a V-shaped decrease row. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Attachment: Pin the strip into the armhole opening. Sew the ends together and attach it to the raw edge of the armhole, stretching the trim strip slightly as you sew to ensure a snug, professional fit that won’t gap. Repeat for the second armhole.
8. Finishing Touches
Buttons: Align your buttons perfectly with the buttonholes created on your front panel trim. Using your tapestry needle and matching yarn or sewing thread, sew the 25 mm buttons securely in place.
Weave Ends: Use your tapestry needle to weave in all loose ends securely on the inside of the garment.
Blocking: Lightly steam block or wet block your finished top. This relaxes the fibers, smooths out your seams, and allows that beautiful vertical ribbing to drape perfectly against your body. Enjoy your new handmade top!
