Ribbing worked in front and back post double crochet has a natural stretch and recovery that makes it ideal for a fitted crop top — and the curved corset hem here takes that a step further by shaping the bottom edge to sit higher at the sides and dip toward the center front. The spaghetti straps are crocheted separately and attached once the body is complete. If the ribbed look appeals to you, the ribbed tank top from Granny Gaia uses the same stitch with a straight hem for comparison.
Crochet Spaghetti Straped Top
The body is worked flat in two matching panels and seamed at the sides, with the corset shaping built into the stitch count at the hem rather than added as a separate step. It’s a beginner project that produces a result that reads as more intermediate once finished. For a tube top version of the same ribbed construction without straps, the ribbed tube top is worth bookmarking alongside this one.
Materials
- 3.0 mm crochet hook
- Medium weight 100% acrylic yarn
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
- Measuring tape
- Two stitch markers
Techniques You’ll Work With
Foundation And Sizing
- Measure your bust and divide the number by 8 to get the target panel width
- Create a slip knot and chain 35 for a standard size
- Adjust the chain length to 30 for a shorter top or 40 for a longer top
Sizing clarity:
- Dividing your bust by 8 gives you the width for one shaped section of the top rather than the full circumference.
- This keeps the fabric fitted instead of loose.
- The starting chain controls how tall the top is vertically, so adjusting it shorter or longer changes coverage without affecting width.
Initial Straight Rows
- Work half double crochet into the second chain from the hook and into every chain across
- Chain 1 and turn
- Work half double crochet across the row
- Repeat the row until the panel reaches your bust divided by 8 measurement when lightly stretched
- If you’re a beginner and crochet patterns feel confusing, start with the video tutorial below, it’s the easiest way to learn as you go!
Why this section matters: These straight rows create a stable base before any shaping begins. Measuring while lightly stretched is important because half double crochet relaxes with wear. If you work this section too loose, the cups may feel unsupported later.
Increase Section
- Chain 1 and turn
- Place two half double crochets in the first stitch
- Work one half double crochet in each stitch across
- Place two half double crochets in the last stitch
- Repeat this increase row for the same number of rows as the initial straight section
Shaping explanation: Increasing at both ends widens the fabric evenly, creating room for the bust without pulling the fabric upward. Matching the number of increase rows to the straight rows keeps the shaping balanced and symmetrical.
Cup Shaping Side One
- Place a stitch marker at the start of this section
- Chain 1 and turn
- Work half double crochet across without increasing in the first stitch
- Place an increase in the last stitch
- Chain 1 and turn
- Place an increase in the first stitch
- Work half double crochet across until two stitches remain
- Work a half double crochet two together decrease
- Alternate these two rows for 12 rows
- Work 4 rows of half double crochet with no increases or decreases
What’s happening here: This section shapes one side of the bust by adding height at the outer edge while gently controlling the inner edge. The stitch marker helps you clearly see where this shaping starts so you don’t accidentally mirror it too early.
Cup Shaping Side Two Mirrored
- Chain 1 and turn
- Place an increase at the top edge
- Work half double crochet across
- Place a decrease at the bottom edge
- Repeat this mirrored shaping for 12 rows
- Work rows decreasing at both the beginning and end until you return to 35 stitches
- Work the final straight rows with no shaping to match the first section
Mirroring tip: This side is worked as the visual opposite of the first cup. Take a moment to compare your fabric before starting. If both sides lean inward toward the center, your shaping is aligned correctly.
Loops And Edging
- Chain 2 and skip 2 stitches to create corset lacing gaps
- Separate gaps with sections of 8 single crochets
- Single crochet evenly along the top edge
- Alternate between placing 1 or 2 single crochets at row ends to keep the edge flat
Edge control: Row ends tend to curl or ripple if too many stitches are placed. Alternating between 1 and 2 single crochets lets the edge sit flat without tightening the fabric.
Straps
- Attach yarn at the top of each cup
- Chain 3 to count as a double crochet
- Work one double crochet in the next stitch
- Chain 3 and work one double crochet between the previous two posts
- Repeat this strap pattern until the strap reaches your desired length
- Make both straps the same length for balance
Strap fit guidance: Check strap length while wearing the top or holding it against your body. Acrylic yarn has minimal stretch, so aim for a snug but comfortable fit to prevent sagging over time.
Beginner Notes
- Use stitch markers generously, especially during cup shaping
- Count rows at the end of each section to maintain symmetry
- Keep tension consistent; uneven tension is more noticeable in fitted garments
Troubleshooting
- Top feels too tight: Recheck your bust measurement and stretch level during the initial straight rows
- Edges ripple: Reduce the number of single crochets placed at row ends
- Cups look uneven: Count shaping rows on both sides and compare stitch placement
Finishing Notes
- Weave in all ends securely, especially at strap joins and shaping transitions.
- Light blocking can help smooth the edges and define the cup shape, but avoid excessive heat with acrylic yarn.
