Joining individual flower motifs into a wearable top is one of those projects where the construction method is half the appeal, each motif is small and manageable on its own, and the garment grows piece by piece rather than row by row. This long-sleeve version works the circular floral units across both the body and sleeves, leaving the fabric open and lacy throughout. The cream cotton keeps it light enough for warmer weather even with the sleeve length. If you want to see a similar open, airy construction without the sleeves, the filet crochet top with a flower motif is a useful comparison in terms of finished drape.
Filet Crochet Top Long Sleeve
The process works one motif at a time, each flower unit is completed, then joined to its neighbors as the fabric builds outward. A green hook and cream cotton keep the color palette neutral and the joins clean. Once all the motifs are assembled, the top takes shape without additional shaping rows, since the motif arrangement handles the silhouette. For another joined-motif approach with a different scale and structure, the patchwork long-sleeve granny square sweater shows how the same build-as-you-go logic works with square rather than circular motifs.
Materials
- Yarn cotton 8×4 approximately 150 to 200 grams
- Crochet hook 3.5 mm
- Scissors
Skills Needed for This Crochet Pattern
Pattern Logic and Sizing
- Each flower motif uses approximately 25 stitches
- Starting chain formula is 25 multiplied by number of flowers plus 3 stitches for symmetry plus 2 stitches for the first stitch
- Sleeve panel uses 3 flowers resulting in 80 total chains
- Body panel uses 4 flowers resulting in 105 total chains
How to use the sizing logic without second guessing yourself
This project is built on “flower blocks” that repeat cleanly across the row.
The stitch counts here matter because the flower shape needs room on both sides (symmetry stitches), and you also need turning space at the very beginning.
- 25 stitches per flower is your repeat unit. Think of it as one complete lace motif width.
- +3 stitches for symmetry keeps the edges balanced so the lace doesn’t look like it’s chopped off at the sides.
- +2 stitches for the first stitch gives you the turning setup so Row 1 starts neatly.
If you decide to adjust width, keep the formula the same:
- Pick how many flowers you want across.
- Multiply by 25.
- Add 3.
- Add 2.
That’s how you can confidently resize without guessing.
- If you’re new to reading crochet patterns, don’t worry, just follow along with the video tutorial below and use the written pattern as a reference!
Quick fit note
Because this is lace, the fabric relaxes and opens after you wear it or lightly block it. If you are between sizes, most crocheters prefer the panel that looks slightly narrow before blocking, because lace stretches wider once it drapes.
Before You Start
Read this once to avoid the most common mistakes
- Count stitches at the end of Row 1. If Row 1 is off, every “skip 2” and chain space later will drift and the flowers won’t stack cleanly.
- Mark your repeats early. Stitch markers can help you keep track of where each flower repeat begins, especially in the setup rows.
- Chain spaces are part of the structure. In this lace, the chain spaces are not just “gaps.” They’re the anchors where the flower center and widening happen.
Stitch and Shaping Clarity
What the rows are doing, in plain words
- Row 1 creates a stable base of double crochet so the lace has a consistent foundation.
- Row 2 sets up the first mesh structure that tells the fabric where to open.
- Row 3 starts forming the flower outline by working partly into chain spaces and partly into stitches.
- Row 4 and Row 5 build the flower’s widest and most decorative center using longer chains and the triple crochet section.
- Row 6 reinforces the center and creates a strong “bridge” across the flower so it holds its shape.
- Rows 7–10 close everything back down in reverse so the flower repeat finishes neatly and the next section stacks correctly.
Working “into the chain space” versus “on stitches”
Any time the pattern says something like “2 worked into the chain space and 2 on stitches,” treat it like two different anchors:
- Into chain space: insert your hook into the open gap created by the chain. This usually adds height and openness.
- On stitches: insert into the actual top loops of the double crochet stitches. This keeps structure and prevents the lace from feeling too loose.
That mix is what makes the petals look defined instead of floppy.
Flower Lace Pattern Rows
Row 1
Double crochet in every stitch across
Helpful note: This row should feel plain and simple. Its job is to give you clean stitch tops to count and skip later. Take the time to make your double crochets even in height, because lace shows uneven tension more than dense fabric does.
Row 2 Setup Row
- 10 double crochet
- Chain 2
- Skip 2 stitches
- 4 double crochet
- Chain 2
- Skip 2 stitches
- 17 double crochet
Repeat the sequence and end with 10 double crochet
How to keep this row tidy:
- Your chain 2 sections create the first “windows” in the lace.
- The skipped stitches must stay consistent. If you accidentally skip 1 or 3 even once, your flower will shift sideways in the next rows.
- Ending with 10 double crochet matters because it keeps both edges matching.
Row 3
- 7 double crochet
- Chain 2
- Skip 2 stitches
- 4 double crochet with 2 worked into the chain space and 2 on stitches
- Chain 2
- Skip 2 stitches
- 4 double crochet with 2 worked into the chain space and 2 on stitches
- Chain 2
- Skip 2 stitches
- 11 double crochet
- Repeat across the row
What’s happening here: This is where the pattern begins to “grab” those chain spaces from Row 2 and use them as part of the motif. When you work 2 double crochet into a chain space, it fills that gap slightly while still leaving it open, which helps define the petal edges.
Row 4 Widening the Flower
- 4 double crochet
- Chain 2
- Skip 2 stitches
- 4 double crochet
- Chain 4
- 1 triple crochet into the center chain space
- Chain 4
- 4 double crochet
- Chain 2
- Skip 2 stitches
- 5 double crochet
- Repeat across the row
Stitch clarity for the triple crochet section:
- The triple crochet is the “spine” of the flower center.
- Make sure you are placing that triple crochet into the intended center chain space, not into a random gap. If the triple crochet shifts, the flower center will look off-center.
Tension tip: Keep the chain 4 sections consistent. If you chain loosely on one flower and tightly on the next, the petals will look uneven.
Row 5 Center of the Flower
- 1 double crochet
- Chain 2
- Skip 2 stitches
- 4 double crochet
- Chain 6
- 3 single crochet worked over the triple crochet section
- Chain 6
- 4 double crochet
- Chain 3
- Skip 3 stitches
- Repeat across the row
This row is where many crocheters pause, so here’s the clear idea:
- The chain 6 creates a large open loop above the triple crochet from Row 4.
- The “3 single crochet worked over the triple crochet section” means you’re securing that center area so it becomes a stable flower core instead of a loose ladder of chains.
If your center feels too loose, it usually means one of two things:
- the chain 6 is very loose compared to your normal tension, or
- the single crochets weren’t placed firmly across the intended center area.
Row 6
- 4 double crochet with 1 on stitch, 2 in chain space, and 1 on stitch
- Chain 8
- 5 single crochet across the flower center
- Chain 8
- 5 double crochet
- Repeat across the row
How to read the first part: When it says “4 double crochet with 1 on stitch, 2 in chain space, and 1 on stitch,” think of it as a group of four that straddles the space:
- dc on stitch
- dc into chain space
- dc into chain space
- dc on stitch
That keeps the opening centered and balanced.
Why the chain 8 and 5 single crochet matter: This builds the top of the flower center so it has a defined arch. The single crochet strip adds stability so the lace doesn’t collapse inward.
Rows 7 to 10 Closing the Flower
- Row 7 mirrors Row 5
- Row 8 mirrors Row 4 including the triple crochet in the center
- Row 9 mirrors Row 3
- Row 10 mirrors Row 2
Why the mirroring works: These rows are essentially “closing” the flower in reverse, like folding the structure back down so the motif finishes cleanly. If your flower looks correct through Row 6, these mirrored rows usually lock it into place.
Assembly
- Create two sleeve panels using a 3 by 3 flower layout
- Create two body panels using a 4 by 5 flower layout
- Place front and back body panels together and slip stitch the shoulders, leaving the center two flowers open for the neckline
- Lay the body panels flat and attach sleeves to each side, centering them evenly
- Fold the top and slip stitch from the wrist through the underarm and down the side seams
Fit and Sizing Guidance
Understanding the panel layouts
- Sleeves: 3 by 3 flowers means your sleeve fabric is built as a square motif panel. This creates a roomy, drapey sleeve that matches the lace style.
- Body: 4 by 5 flowers means the cardigan body is a rectangle. The lace will naturally hang and open, which is why the neckline is created by leaving motif space open at the top center.
Neckline shaping, explained
- When you “leave the center two flowers open for the neckline,” you’re creating a gentle scoop opening without needing any shaping rows. The motif layout does the shaping for you.
- If you prefer a higher neckline, you can leave less open space at the center. If you prefer a deeper neckline, you can leave more open space. The important part is keeping it symmetrical between front and back.
Beginner Notes That Help Even Experienced Crocheters
- Use a starting chain that isn’t overly tight. Lace needs the foundation chain to relax. If it’s too tight, the bottom edge will pull inward.
- Consider a chainless foundation if you like. Only if you already use it comfortably, because the pattern’s stitch counts still need to match.
- Count at the end of each setup row. It’s easier to fix a count issue on Row 2 than on Row 8.
Troubleshooting
My flowers look squished or uneven
- Check your chain lengths (chain 4, chain 6, chain 8) are consistent.
- Make sure the triple crochet is truly centered in the intended chain space.
The pattern is drifting and the flowers don’t stack
- Usually caused by skipping the wrong number of stitches once.
- Go back to Row 2 and confirm every “skip 2” and “skip 3” is correct.
My edges look messy
- The “end with 10 double crochet” in Row 2 is what keeps edges balanced.
- If your last repeat doesn’t end correctly, your stitch count at the start (foundation chain and Row 1) may be off.
Finishing Notes
- After seaming, lightly tug the lace into shape with your hands before trimming ends. Lace responds well to gentle shaping.
- Weave in ends securely along solid double crochet sections rather than across chain spaces, so the joins don’t show through the openwork.
- If you block, do it gently. Cotton can relax a lot, and lace motifs open dramatically with even light blocking.
