Free crochet pullover top pattern built on filet flower motifs, where the blooms come from open and filled squares rather than anything sewn on after. The mesh grid holds its shape while leaving the fabric light, and the flowers repeat across the body in a set rhythm. Work the panels flat, join at the shoulders and sides, and the motifs line up as you go.
A cream crochet pullover built entirely from daisy flower motifs is one of those projects that draws people in the moment they see it. The off-the-shoulder neckline and flared bell sleeves give it a boho feel that works just as well dressed up as it does with a simple pair of leggings, and if you enjoyed making the baggy sweater from Emma Warrender, you will recognize her clean, beginner-friendly approach right away.
Crochet Pullover Top Sweater
Each daisy motif is worked individually and then joined as you go, so the construction feels manageable even for newer crocheters tackling their first garment. The finished top has a lovely open, lacy drape that makes it a strong warm-weather layering piece.
Materials and Tools
- Yarn of your choice in any weight (the original by Emma Warrender doesn’t specify a weight — choose based on the drape you want)
- A crochet hook appropriate to your yarn
- Darning needle
- Scissors
Useful Stitch to Learn
Difficulty and Time
The pattern is labeled beginner-friendly and the stitches themselves are not advanced, but the 10-row sequence takes focus — particularly Rows 3 through 9, where you’re working a mix of double crochets, chain spaces, and positioning stitches precisely relative to the row below. Most people find they need to work through the first flower repeat slowly with the instructions in hand, and then it starts to feel logical. The reward is well worth the patience.
Before You Start — Technique Notes
Here’s a careful walkthrough of every concept in this pattern. Read these before Row 1 and the rest will make much more sense.
- Chain 2 counts as the first double crochet: At the start of every row, chain 2 and turn. That chain-2 takes the place of your first double crochet — you begin working into the second stitch of the previous row, not the first. This is consistent throughout the pattern, so once you understand it in Row 1, you know it for all rows.
- The stitch multiple is 25: Your foundation chain must be a multiple of 25. Each group of 25 stitches will produce one full flower repeat across the width. For a chain of 75 you get 3 flowers; for 100 you get 4. If you want a 2-double-crochet border on each edge to make assembly cleaner, add 4 extra chains to your multiple.
- How the flower is built: The flower motif is a vertical construction — it starts on Row 2 as a pair of small gaps, builds outward row by row as the chains get longer (ch-2, ch-4, ch-5, ch-6), reaches its widest point at Row 6, and then mirrors back inward through Rows 7 to 10 to close. The treble crochet at the center in Rows 4 and 8 creates the flower’s pointed petal apex.
- Working into “gap spaces” from the row below: Several rows ask you to work stitches inside the chain spaces of the previous row, not into the top of stitches. This is what builds the three-dimensional structure of the flower. The instruction “2 dc inside the gap space” means insert your hook into the chain space itself (the gap), not the chain loops.
- Working into “posts”: A “post” is the vertical body of the stitch — you’ll see instructions like “1 dc into the post just before/after the gap.” This means working into the actual upright column of the stitch beside the gap, which frames the gap neatly.
- The treble crochet: Yarn over twice, insert hook, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, repeat twice more. The treble is taller than a double crochet and creates the pointed apex of the flower petal in Rows 4 and 8.
- Ch-4 and ch-5 petal spaces: In Rows 4, 5, 7, and 8, you’ll chain longer lengths to create the arch of the petal. On the following row, you work single crochets or double crochets into these arches. The arch gradually grows and then closes — this is the petal form emerging.
- Assembly construction: The sweater is made from 4 separate flat panels — front, back, and two sleeves. Each panel is a rectangle of repeated flower columns. They’re joined with single crochet seams at the shoulders first, then the sleeves are attached, then the sides and underarms are seamed in one continuous pass from hem to cuff.
The Pattern
The entire sweater uses one stitch sequence, repeated across all 4 panels: a 10-row flower repeat, always beginning from a solid double crochet base, always ending with a solid double crochet row before starting the next repeat.
The Foundation
- Chain a multiple of 25 for your required width. For reference, 75 chains produces 3 flowers across (suitable for a sleeve or a standard-width panel). Add 4 extra chains if you want a 2-double-crochet border on each edge.
The Base Row (Full Double Crochet)
- Chain 2 extra (counts as the first double crochet).
- Work 1 double crochet into the 3rd chain from the hook (the original final foundation chain).
- Work 1 double crochet in every chain across to the end.
The Two-Square Base
- Chain 2 and turn.
- Work 10 double crochets (the chain-2 counts as the first stitch).
- Pattern repeat: chain 2, skip 2, 4 double crochets, chain 2, skip 2, 17 double crochets.
- Repeat across until the final flower repeat. After the last pair of chain-2 gaps, finish with 7 double crochets.
If you’re a beginner and crochet patterns feel confusing, start with the video tutorial below, it’s the easiest way to learn as you go!
The Three-Square Expansion
- Chain 2 and turn.
- Double crochet until exactly 3 stitches before the first gap (4 double crochets total at the beginning).
- Chain 2, work 1 double crochet into the stitch just before the gap, 2 double crochets inside the gap space, 1 double crochet into the next post.
- Chain 2, work 1 double crochet into the next post, 2 double crochets inside the next gap space, 1 double crochet into the post following it.
- Chain 2, skip 2, 1 double crochet into the 3rd stitch.
- Double crochet across the solid section until 3 stitches before the next gap set, then repeat.
- Finish the row with 7 double crochets after the last square framework.
The Treble Crochet Petal
- Chain 2 and turn. Double crochet until 3 stitches before the square (4 double crochets total).
- Chain 2, skip 2, 1 double crochet into the next stitch, 2 double crochets into the square space, 1 double crochet into the post.
- Petal: chain 4, work 1 treble crochet directly into the center square space below, chain 4.
- 1 double crochet into the post before the next square, 2 double crochets into the square space, 1 double crochet after the square.
- Chain 2, skip 2, 1 double crochet. Double crochet across the flat section until 3 stitches before the next flower element. Repeat.
- Finish with exactly 1 double crochet after the final square element.
Expanding the Center
- Chain 2 and turn (counts as 1 double crochet). Work 2 double crochets into the first square space, 1 double crochet after it (4 double crochets total).
- Flower section: chain 5, work 1 single crochet into the chain-4 petal space from the row below, 1 single crochet into the “V” apex of the treble crochet stitch, and 1 single crochet into the next chain-4 petal space (3 single crochets total).
- Chain 5, work 1 double crochet into the stitch just before the next square, 2 double crochets inside the square, 1 double crochet after it.
- Between flowers: chain 3, 1 double crochet into the stitch right before the next flower’s square space. Repeat.
The Full Flower Center
- Chain 2 and turn. Work 2 double crochets into the square space, 1 double crochet after (4 double crochets total).
- Flower section: chain 6, 1 single crochet into the chain-5 space below. Work 3 single crochets into the existing 3 single crochet stitches from the row below, then 1 single crochet into the next chain-5 space (5 single crochets total).
- Chain 6, work 1 double crochet into the stitch before the next square.
- Between flowers: work 3 double crochets inside the chain-3 gap space from the row below, followed by 1 double crochet after it (5 double crochets total in this bridge). Repeat.
First Decrease Row
- Chain 2 and turn. Work 3 double crochets into the first large chain-6 petal loop (4 double crochets total).
- Chain 5. Skip the first single crochet of the flower center, work 1 single crochet into each of the next 3 single crochets. Skip the final single crochet.
- Chain 5, work 3 double crochets inside the next large chain-6 loop space, 1 double crochet into the solid post immediately after.
- Between flowers: chain 3, 1 double crochet right before the next loop space. Repeat.
The Final Petal Point
- Chain 2 and turn. Work 2 double crochets into the square space, 1 double crochet after. Chain 2, 1 double crochet into the 3rd stitch (right before the petal loop).
- Work 3 double crochets into the loop space (4 double crochets total).
- Apex: chain 4, work 1 treble crochet directly into the middle single crochet of the three below, chain 4.
- Work 3 double crochets into the next loop space, 1 double crochet into the post immediately after.
- Chain 2, 1 double crochet into the 3rd stitch, 3 double crochets inside the chain-3 square space, 1 double crochet after (5 double crochets total on this bridge). Repeat.
Three Squares Above the Flower
- Chain 2 and turn. Work 2 double crochets into the square, 1 double crochet after (4 double crochets total). Chain 2, 1 double crochet into the 3rd stitch.
- Work 3 double crochets into the loop space (4 double crochets total).
- Chain 2, work 1 double crochet straight into the loop space on the other side of the treble crochet. Work 2 more double crochets in the loop, 1 double crochet into the post after (4 double crochets total).
- Chain 2, work 1 double crochet into the stitch right before the square, 2 double crochets inside the square, 1 double crochet after.
- Double crochet straight across the solid sections until 3 stitches before the next petal set. Repeat.
- Finish with 7 double crochets at the end of the row.
Two Squares Above the Flower
- Chain 2 and turn. Double crochet across until you pass the first square (work 2 double crochets inside it, 1 double crochet after).
- Chain 2, skip 2, work 1 double crochet into the 3rd stitch before the middle square, 2 double crochets inside the square, 1 double crochet after.
- Chain 2, skip 2, work 1 double crochet into the 3rd stitch.
- Double crochet across the flat area until you pass the next flower’s first square, then repeat.
- Finish with 7 double crochets at the end.
After Row 10, work one final solid row of double crochets to seal the edge cleanly before starting another flower repeat or moving to assembly.
Assembly
Make 4 panels total: one front, one back, and two sleeves. The back panel benefits from a few extra rows to prevent it from riding up when worn.
- Shoulder seams: Lay the front and back panels right sides facing each other (inside out). Join yarn at the outer corner and single crochet through both layers approximately 5 stitches inward on each side, leaving a wide open center for the boat-neck neckline. Repeat on the other shoulder.
- Attach the sleeves: Lay the sweater body flat. Align the center of each flat sleeve panel with its shoulder seam. Single crochet the sleeve edge to the body from armpit to armpit.
- Side and sleeve seams: Fold the sweater back inside out. Single crochet continuously from the bottom hem of the torso, up the side seam, through the armpit, and down the sleeve to the cuff. (Optional: leave the last flower section at the cuff unstitched for a decorative slit detail.)
- Flip right-side out and weave in all ends.
Tips and Troubleshooting
- Work your first flower repeat slowly with the instructions visible. The 10-row sequence is systematic but not self-evident on first read. Complete one full flower before deciding whether the pattern “clicks” — it almost always does by Row 6.
- Add the extra 4 chains for a cleaner seam. The optional 2-double-crochet border on each edge makes lining up the panels for assembly significantly easier, especially for a first garment construction.
- Always end on a solid double crochet row. Whether you’re stopping to measure, seaming, or finishing the panel, the solid row (Row 1 or the equivalent final row) gives you a clean, even edge to work from or into.
Customization Ideas
- Change the number of flowers. A chain of 50 gives 2 flowers per panel; 100 gives 4. Adjust width by adjusting how many 25-stitch multiples you chain.
- Make it longer or shorter. Each full flower repeat adds height to the panel — work one or two more vertical repeats for a longer, tunic-style garment, or stop earlier for a crop.
- Cuff slit detail. Leaving the final flower section unstitched at the cuff gives a soft, decorative split that works well with the open flower motif.
- Make it a vest. Omit the sleeve panels entirely and work a simple single crochet edging around the armhole openings for a sleeveless version.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. What does “multiples of 25” mean for the starting chain? It means your total foundation chain count should be divisible by 25 with no remainder — so 25, 50, 75, 100, and so on. Each group of 25 chains produces exactly one full flower column across the width of the panel. Add 4 extra chains on top of your multiple if you want a neat 2-double-crochet border on each side edge.
2. Why is chain-2 counted as the first double crochet? Chain-2 at the start of a turned row lifts the yarn to the correct height to match a double crochet stitch. If you treated it as a separate unit and then also worked a double crochet into the very first stitch, you’d have one extra stitch at the beginning of every row, which would distort the pattern alignment. Counting the chain-2 as the first stitch means your first actual double crochet goes into the second stitch of the row below.
3. I can’t tell where one row’s “gap spaces” are in the row below — how do I find them? After the first few rows, the chain spaces become visible as actual gaps in the fabric. Turn your work toward a light source and look along the row below — the chain spaces appear as small holes. When the pattern says “2 dc inside the gap space,” you’re inserting your hook into the open hole, not under a loop.
4. My flower petals look flat rather than dimensional — what went wrong? This is usually a tension issue on the chain arches in Rows 4–8. If the chain-4, chain-5, or chain-6 arches are pulled tight, the petal has no room to fan outward. Work those chaining steps with relaxed tension — let the arch sit loosely so it forms a real loop rather than a tight curve.
5. Can I make just one panel to use as a scarf or shawl instead of a full sweater? Absolutely. A single flat panel of flower repeats makes a beautiful scarf, wrap, or table runner. Just work as many 25-stitch flower columns across as you like, and as many vertical repeats as you need for the length, and finish with a solid double crochet row on both ends.
