Wooden buttons marching down the back and a single soft flower sitting at the nape — this one saves all its charm for the view as you walk away. Instead of tying, it fastens up the back like a little vintage blouse, which gives the whole thing a tidy, romantic feel in that sweet cotton-candy pink. For another make where flowers do the talking, this flower granny square tunic leans into the same garden-y mood.
Cotton Crochet Top
The body works up in soft columns that scallop along the top edge, while the standout bloom is built from rounded puff petals — fuller than they look, and very doable once the puff rhythm clicks. If floral detail is your weakness, the cut-out floral bralette scratches the same itch in a flirtier cut. Reach for a smooth cotton so every petal and shell stays crisp and that pink stays clean.
Materials
- 4-ply cotton yarn
- 2.5 mm crochet hook
Stitches You’ll Need for This Pattern
Measurements
- Width: 85 cm
- Length: 42 cm
- Bottom circumference: 80 cm
Before You Start
What to expect from cotton and 2.5 mm
With 4-ply cotton and a 2.5 mm hook, your fabric will be crisp and detailed. That’s perfect for motifs and picots, but it also means:
- Your stitches need consistent tension, or motifs may vary in size.
- Blocking matters more than usual. A quick steam block (or wet block) helps every square match.
Quick stitch clarity
Your pattern uses these terms repeatedly, so it helps to know what they mean in the context of this top:
- Magic ring: adjustable center start for a tight flower middle.
- Puff stitch: creates the raised petal detail.
- Picot: tiny loop accent on the square edging.
- Decrease section: shaping rows done after motifs are joined.
Pattern Instructions
Creating the Flower Motifs
- Make a magic ring.
- Chain 4, work 1 double crochet and chain 1, repeat this 11 times.
- Slip stitch into the 3rd chain to close the round.
- For Petal 1: Chain 3, 4 double crochets, 1 puff stitch.
- For Petal 2 onward: Chain 3, 5 double crochets, 1 puff stitch.
- Repeat the petal pattern (ch 3, 5 dc, puff stitch) a total of 12 times.
- Slip stitch to secure the flower.
Squaring the Flower Motif
- Chain 4, work 1 double crochet (Corner 1).
- Chain 3, 1 single crochet, chain 3 (Side 1).
- Work 1 double crochet, chain 1, 1 double crochet (Corner 2).
- Chain 3, 1 single crochet, chain 3 (Side 2).
- Work 1 double crochet, chain 1, 1 double crochet (Corner 3).
- Chain 3, 1 single crochet, chain 3 (Side 3).
- Work 1 double crochet, chain 1, 1 double crochet (Corner 4).
- Chain 3, 1 single crochet, chain 3 (Side 4).
- Slip stitch into 3rd chain to complete the square.
- Chain 6 (counts as dc + ch 3).
- Work 1 picot, 1 double crochet.
- Repeat the picot and dc pattern for all sides.
- At corners: Work 1 dc, 1 picot, 1 dc.
- Finish with a slip stitch, chain 2, and cut the yarn.
- If you’re still learning how to read crochet patterns, no stress! Follow the video tutorial below and use the written pattern below as you get more comfortable!
Assembling the Motifs
- Create multiple motifs (minimum of 8).
- Join motifs using slip stitch and chain 1 at each connecting side.
- Continue joining 5 more motifs for the front.
- Join 2 motifs on each side to create back and underarm sections.
Building the Top’s Body
- Work a decreasing pattern for 12 rows—only the top narrows; the bottom remains straight.
- After the decrease section, crochet 12 straight rows.
- Repeat the process for the opposite side to match.
- For the top edge, make single crochets between 2 spaces.
- Decrease to 5 double crochets in each space for one row.
- Do the same on the opposite edge.
- Next row: Work 7 double crochets in each space.
- Crochet 3 slip stitches to move to the next section.
- Chain 1, work 1 single crochet.
- Work 5 double crochets in the next section.
- Continue repeating the pattern: 1 sc, 5 dc or 7 dc.
- Repeat this alternating pattern for texture and shaping.
- Continue the decreasing pattern (5 dc rows) for 11 more rows on both edges.
Finishing Touches
Attach buttons on the front edge to complete the closure.
Picot edging tips
Your edging starts with chain 6 (counts as dc + ch 3). That means you’re immediately creating height plus the first picot spacing.
Picots can vary a lot in size based on tension, so the best trick is:
- Make the picot chains snug, not loose.
- Keep every picot chain count consistent (whatever method you use for picot, repeat it the same way every time).
Corners get “1 dc, 1 picot, 1 dc” because corners need reinforcement. That extra dc on both sides prevents curling and helps the square keep its shape when joined.
Joining motifs so seams look clean
“Slip stitch and chain 1 at each connecting side” makes a firm join that sits flatter than some bulkier joins.
For consistency:
- Always join motifs the same way (same direction, same side facing up).
- Decide whether you want the join line visible on the right side or hidden on the wrong side, then stick to that choice throughout.
Motif count and layout reality check
Your instructions say “minimum of 8,” then specify joining “5 more motifs for the front” and “2 motifs on each side” for back and underarm sections. That tells you the layout is modular, and the exact number can shift depending on size and coverage.
The safest approach is:
- Make your first 8 motifs.
- Lay them out on a flat surface and measure against your body or a top you like.
- Add motifs until you reach the intended width and coverage.
This keeps you aligned with your measurements (85 cm width, 42 cm length) without changing any steps.
Shaping: what “only the top narrows” means
The body shaping is described as a decreasing pattern where “the top narrows; the bottom remains straight.” Practically, that means your decreases are placed near the upper edge or upper side areas, so the hemline stays consistent while the neckline/upper fit becomes more secure.
Keeping both sides identical
You repeat the decrease section and straight rows on the opposite side. This is where crocheters commonly get frustrated because one side ends up slightly longer.
Two habits prevent that:
- Count rows carefully (write down row numbers as you go).
- Use stitch markers at the start of each row section (decrease section vs straight section), so you don’t accidentally add or skip a row.
The textured edge pattern explained
Your finishing rows switch between:
- single crochet between 2 spaces
- 5 double crochets in each space
- 7 double crochets in each space
- repeating “1 sc, 5 dc or 7 dc”
That creates a textured, slightly ruffled rhythm along the edge. The single crochet acts like a spacer and anchor so the clusters don’t flare too wildly. The 5 dc vs 7 dc changes fullness and shaping.
The “crochet 3 slip stitches to move to the next section” is a clean way to reposition without cutting yarn. Keep those slip stitches snug so they don’t create a loose ladder.
Fit and sizing guidance
How to use your measurements
- Width (85 cm): This is strongly tied to how many motifs you join across.
- Length (42 cm): This is influenced by both motif layout and how many shaping/straight rows you add afterward.
- Bottom circumference (80 cm): The key here is that your bottom stays straight during decreases, so motif layout at the hem matters.
If your top is wider than expected
This usually comes from motifs turning out slightly larger. Two fixes that don’t change your pattern:
- Use firmer tension on the next motifs (especially the chain spaces).
- Block motifs to the same size before joining.
If the underarm feels tight
That’s often about how the “2 motifs on each side” are placed. Before final joining, pin or clip the motif layout and try it against your body, so you can confirm the arm opening is comfortable.
Beginner notes that prevent common mistakes
- Count your repeats in the flower round. It’s easy to lose track in “repeat this 11 times.”
- Puff stitches can loosen the petal edge if your yarn overs are inconsistent. Pull up each loop to the same height.
- Don’t skip blocking. Even a light block makes joining easier and the final top look more finished.
- When joining motifs, keep your working yarn tension even, or seams will pucker.
Finishing notes
Buttons and closure
- Attach buttons on the front edge after you’ve tried the top on and confirmed the overlap.
- That way the closure sits where it naturally wants to close, rather than pulling the edge out of shape.
Weave ends with intention
- Motif projects create lots of ends. Weave ends into the densest stitch areas (double crochets and puff stitch bases) so they stay secure through wear and washing.
