Free Long Crochet Sweater With Jeans Pattern – Filet Crochet Pattern

Long Crochet Sweater With Jeans

The construction is worked flat in panels that are seamed together, making it easy to check your measurements as you go and adjust the length before finishing. No shaping experience is needed since the boxy open front silhouette relies on straight edges throughout. A clean border along the front opening finishes the piece without adding visual weight.

Materials and Tools

• Lion Brand Comfy Cotton Blend yarn (or any lightweight category 3 cotton or cotton blend yarn)
• A 6.5 mm hook
• Tape measure
• Tapestry needle
• Scissors

Stitch to Master

• Mesh stitch

Difficulty and Time

This is an intermediate project. The mesh stitch itself is just alternating double crochets and chain-1 spaces — a simple, rhythmic repeat that’s easy to settle into. The complexity is in understanding the hexagon construction: how corners and sides are handled differently, how the hexagon folds into an L-shape, and how the two halves come together. None of it is technically hard, but it rewards patience on the first hexagon. Once the construction logic clicks, the second goes much faster. Budget a couple of focused sessions for the hexagons and a more relaxed one for assembly and hemline.

Beginner Technique Notes

A few structural points are worth understanding before you start:

• The hexagon in mesh stitch: You’re growing a six-sided shape using alternating double crochets and chain spaces. Six corners are defined by chain-2 spaces, while the flat sides between corners use chain-1 spaces. On every round, corners get a double-V increase (1 double crochet, chain 2, 1 double crochet) while sides get plain double crochets separated by chain-1 spaces.
• Counting chains at round starts: Chain 4 counts as your first double crochet plus a chain-1 space. Chain 5 counts as a double crochet plus a chain-2 corner space. These opening chains set the tone for the whole round, so chain them carefully.
• The crocheted seam (instead of sewn): The shoulder and center-back seams are joined by crocheting alternating double crochets through both layers — a double crochet into the front piece, then a double crochet into the back piece, with a chain-1 between them. This creates a nearly invisible join that looks like part of the mesh fabric.
• Back extension rows: Working a few flat rows up the back edge of each hexagon before assembly prevents the cardigan from pulling backward. It creates the extra back fabric your body actually needs for a comfortable fit — a small step that makes a meaningful difference.
• Steam blocking: Blocking with steam at the end relaxes the mesh stitches, opens up the chain spaces, and transforms the fabric from slightly stiff to beautifully draped. It’s not optional with this construction — it’s the last step that makes it look finished.

The Pattern

The cardigan is built from two identical mesh hexagon panels (each worked to your size), seamed at the shoulders and center back, extended at the back for fit, finished with sleeves worked in the round, a hemline added for length, and a single crochet border along the front opening and neckline.

Turning chain note: Chain 4 at the beginning of rounds counts as a double crochet plus a chain-1 space. Chain 5 counts as a double crochet plus a chain-2 corner space.

The Hexagon Body Halves (Make 2)

Round 1

• Make a slip knot and chain 4.
• Slip stitch to the first chain to create a ring.
• Chain 5 (counts as a double crochet plus a chain-2 space).
• Into the ring, work 1 double crochet, chain 1, 1 double crochet, chain 2.
• Repeat this pattern around the ring until you have 12 double crochets, 6 chain-2 spaces (corners), and 6 chain-1 spaces (sides).
• To finish: chain 1, then slip stitch to the 3rd chain of your starting chain-5 to close.

Round 2

• Chain 4 (counts as a double crochet plus chain-1).
• In the first chain-2 corner space, work 1 double crochet, chain 2, 1 double crochet.
• Chain 1, double crochet into the top of the next double crochet, chain 1, skip the chain-1 space, double crochet into the next double crochet.
• Chain 1, work the corner (1 double crochet, chain 2, 1 double crochet) into the next chain-2 space.
• Repeat this sequence around all sides and corners.
• To finish: chain 1, then slip stitch into the 3rd chain of the starting chain-4.

New to crochet and not sure how to read a pattern yet? The video tutorial below will guide you through it step by step, you’ve got this!

Rounds 3 to 17 (or until your desired size)

• Chain 4 (counts as a double crochet plus chain-1).
• Work the mesh pattern across the sides: double crochet into the top of every double crochet from the previous round, separated by chain-1.
• In every chain-2 corner space, work 1 double crochet, chain 2, 1 double crochet.
• Slip stitch to the 3rd chain to finish each round.
• Fold the hexagon in half to check sizing. The original creator works 17 total rounds, reaching 8.5 inches folded (17 inches total) for a 35-inch bust with space left for the back extensions. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Shoulder Seams

• Fold the hexagon into an L-shape to form the sleeve section and body panel.
• Insert your hook into the outer corner chain-2 space of the folded piece and slip stitch to join yarn.
• Chain 3.
• Yarn over, insert hook into the corresponding chain-2 space on the back panel, and work a double crochet.
• Chain 1, work a double crochet into the next stitch on the front panel, yarn over, and work a double crochet into the corresponding stitch on the back panel.
• Repeat this alternating pattern all the way across the shoulder until you reach the neck edge. Finish with a double crochet in the final front and back spaces. Cut yarn and fasten off.

Back Extension Rows

• Join yarn with a slip stitch into the bottom back corner chain-2 space.
• Chain 4 (counts as a double crochet plus chain-1).
• Work the standard mesh pattern (double crochet, chain 1) straight up the back edge of the panel.
• At the final chain-2 space of the row, work 1 double crochet.
• Turn, chain 4, and work back down.
• Complete 3 rows (approximately 1.5 inches) of back extension. Fasten off and repeat for the second hexagon half.

Sleeves

• Join yarn with a slip stitch at the underarm seam point where the two halves meet.
• Chain 4.
• Work around the sleeve opening in rounds using the standard mesh pattern (double crochet, chain 1, skip 1).
• At the end of each round, chain 1 and slip stitch to the 3rd chain of your starting chain-4.
• Continue in rounds until the sleeve reaches your desired wrist length. No ribbing is added. Fasten off.

Assembly and Finishing

Joining the two halves

• Lay both completed halves flat with the right sides facing up.
• Join yarn at the bottom back corner stitch. Chain 3.
• Work a double crochet into the first stitch of the opposite half.
• Join the halves up the center back using the same alternating method used on the shoulders (chain 1, double crochet front, double crochet back). Fasten off at the neckline.

Extending the hemline

• Join yarn at either bottom front corner.
• Chain 4, then work the mesh stitch all the way across the bottom edge of the cardigan.
• When crossing the back extension rows, work 1 double crochet and 1 chain-1 around the side post of each row.
• Repeat back-and-forth rows until the cardigan reaches your desired length. (The creator adds approximately 12 inches.) Do not fasten off at the end of the final row.

Front border

• Chain 1 from your last hemline stitch.
• Work 2 single crochets around the side post of every double crochet row up the front opening, around the neckline, and down the opposite front side.
• Work a second complete row of single crochet all the way around the border.
• Fasten off, weave in all loose ends, and steam block the cardigan to open the mesh stitches.

Tips and Troubleshooting

1. Count corners and sides after Round 1. You should have 6 chain-2 spaces (corners) and 6 chain-1 spaces (sides). If your counts are off, Round 1 is the easiest place to identify and fix a mistake before it compounds across 16 more rounds.
2. Fold the hexagon every few rounds to check sizing. The creator folds at 17 rounds for a 35-inch bust — but your size may need more or fewer rounds. Folding periodically lets you measure against your own shoulder-to-wrist and shoulder-to-body proportions before committing.
3. Use the crocheted seam, not a sewn one. The alternating double crochet join on the shoulders and center back blends into the mesh fabric far better than a tapestry needle seam. It’s worth the extra steps.
4. Work the back extension rows before assembly. It’s much easier to add those 3 rows to each hexagon before joining them together than to try to add them after.
5. Steam block before the hemline extension. Blocking the hexagon body before adding the hemline rows lets you measure the true draped length and make smarter decisions about how many rows to add.
6. Always end hemline rows on the same side. The border starts from the last hemline stitch — if you’re inconsistent about which edge you stop on, the border may start in the wrong place.

Yarn Substitution

The pattern uses a category 3 lightweight cotton blend — and in this case the fiber choice genuinely matters. A light cotton or cotton blend on a 6.5 mm hook produces the open, drapey mesh that makes this cardigan wearable year-round. Moving to an acrylic at the same category 3 weight will give a stiffer, less breathable fabric. Moving to a heavier yarn will close up the mesh openings and make the garment feel dense. If you substitute, stay within category 3 and choose a smooth, plied cotton or cotton-blend yarn — the stitch definition in the mesh will be visibly different with fuzzy or textured fibers.

Customization Ideas

• Adjust the panel size. More or fewer rounds on each hexagon changes the shoulder width and sleeve length — fold the hexagon against your body as you work to find your own number.
• Lengthen or shorten the hem. The hemline extension rows add length in manageable increments — add rows until you hit your preferred silhouette.
• Try different sleeve lengths. Stop the sleeve rounds earlier for three-quarter or short sleeves.
• Add a button closure. Work 3 or 4 evenly spaced chain loops into the border row on one front side and sew corresponding buttons on the other.
• Change the stitch. Treble crochets instead of double crochets open the mesh further for a lacier look.

Frequently Asked Questions

1. How is this hexagon sweater different from a regular granny hexagon? This hexagon uses a filet mesh stitch — alternating double crochets and chain-1 spaces — rather than the grouped 3-double-crochet clusters of a traditional granny. The result is a more open, regular grid of stitches that drapes like fabric rather than sitting stiff.

2. Why does the hexagon need to be folded into an L-shape for the body? Each hexagon’s geometry works out so that when folded at a specific corner, one arm of the shape covers the sleeve length from shoulder to wrist, and the other arm covers the body from shoulder to hip. Two hexagons folded this way give you a full front, back, and two sleeves in one construction — no separate panels needed.

3. What does “2 single crochets per double crochet row post” mean for the border? Double crochet rows are taller than single crochet stitches. Working 2 single crochets into the side of each double crochet row keeps the border from pulling in or leaving gaps. It’s a ratio adjustment — the same logic used in many garment borders.

4. Can I make this shorter as a regular jacket rather than a long cardigan? Yes — simply add fewer hemline extension rows. Working only 4 to 5 inches of extension instead of 12 gives you a hip-length jacket silhouette. The construction is otherwise identical.

5. Do I have to steam block it — can I just wet block instead? You can wet block, but steam blocking is better for the mesh because the directed heat opens the chain spaces more precisely. Wet blocking works on the overall shape but may not relax the mesh gaps as fully. If you don’t have a steam iron, a wet block is still a meaningful improvement over not blocking at all.